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Routes in 90 Foot Wall

Alias Emil Bart TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bachar's Line TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bastille TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Casual Observer T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dave's Run T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fallout T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holdless Horror T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ice Nine T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lightning Bolt TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost In Space T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Never Ending Story TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polar Circus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Relativity TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rentier T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripoff T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shuman The Human T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strontium 90 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tis-si-ack TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vintage 85 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Boy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Description

About 90' tall (whoddathunk it?), 90 foot wall is a well-featured granite cliff that is very popular and easily top-roped... thus making it often crowded!

The wall provides a good selection of easy to moderate climbs - both face and crack. To set up top ropes, walk around to left. Most climbs have bolts up top, but it is wise to back them up because some of them are old, and all of them see a lot of action.

Gets sun in the mornings, so climb early in cold weather and late when its warm.

Getting There

Walk out of the Eagle Creek Canyon parking lot away from Emerald Bay and follow the waterfall trail (the big trail). After a few hundered feet, the path splits, go right and follow the loop trail. A little while later, the Vista trail trail heads up and off to the right. Take it. Right before the bench that you may sit on to enjoy the beautiful vista, the trail turns sharply right. Don't turn right. Leave the trail and keep going straight over the large slabby rock, and about 150 feet later, 90' wall will appear on your right.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 90 Foot Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 18
Casual Observer
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 58
Holdless Horror
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 65
Strontium 90
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Fallout
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Vintage 85
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Ice Nine
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 33
Ripoff
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Lightning Bolt
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Relativity
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Tis-si-ack
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Lost In Space
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Bastille
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Casual Observer
 18
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR
Holdless Horror
 58
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Strontium 90
 65
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Fallout
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Vintage 85
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Ice Nine
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Ripoff
 33
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Lightning Bolt
 39
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Relativity
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Tis-si-ack
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Lost In Space
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Bastille
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
More Classic Climbs in 90 Foot Wall »

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Ian G.
PDX, OR
Ian G.   PDX, OR
I thought this place was really fun. My partner and I had hiked all the way out to Eagle Lake and had found the place really crowded. After mulling the options we came hear. I had always avoided this place because I heard it sucked, it was crowded, it's only toproping...blah blah. I had a great time. The 5.9 crack up the middle of the cliff was just plain fun. This isn't the place to go if you want to crank out testpieces, but for an afternoon of climbing it's pretty good. May 25, 2009
JGHarrison harrison   Reno, NV
KEEP YOUR DOGS ON A LEASH.

This place gets a lot of action, and is fun for cranking out a few climbs after work or whatever. Every time I go there, however, dogs are running around getting in everyone's way. They walk on my rope, snarl at each other, etc. If you want to bring your dog fine, but keep it leashed at the bottom of the climb you are on. May 31, 2012
Conflict at 90 Foot Wall / Emerald Bay / Tahoe

"Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"

That applies when out climbing, not just on this forum.

Took the whole family to 90 foot wall, which is well known to be "family friendly" due to a large staging area for the kids to stay clear of the wall when not climbing. Reality in climbing today is a legion of kids we are teaching to be amazing climbers who need rock time.

But then there's always the macho man with a finance and something to prove who wants to start fights under people's climbing lines because he wants the routes to himself.

Here's reality: popular places like 90 foot wall are not going to become unpopular any time soon. There's no room for people to always have their own ropes up. Use good manners and ask people if you can either ride their line (if you feel comfortable with their set up) or ask them if you may replace the line with yours. But trying to start fights over it and trying to intimidate people will not work.

In fact, you might just get your teeth knocked out in front of your fiancé for your troubles.

So let's review:
"Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"
And, popular routes are crowded. Get over it. Apr 20, 2015
Now, for the 'normal' comments:

1. Great place to take the family. Everyone we met were very cool with one exception noted above.
2. Be aware you may ride someone else's line. Try not to hog a route if possible.
3. Great routes for beginners and intermediates.
4. PLEASE do not urinate or defecate within 200 feet of the river. We found quite a bit of toilet paper and fecal material along the river edge. There is a restroom 200 yards from the cliff. Please use proper sanitary field procedures if you must... Apr 20, 2015
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
Bolts for anchors at the top of this wall. Very easy walk-off to climber's left, no rapping.
The entire wall is in the sun for most of the day, so it cooks in the warmer months. No shade options for your belayer (except for the chimney route). Jul 8, 2017
Hi All, any tips on backup pro? Do I need to bring a long static line or just gear for cracks? Thanks Jul 18, 2018
Michael Habicht
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Michael Habicht   South Lake Tahoe, CA
ASCA just replaced all of the TR bolts September 2018. Bring a few long runners to equalize, no gear required. And if you care please donate to help fund projects like this in the future!
safeclimbing.org/help.htm Sep 19, 2018

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