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90 Foot Wall

California > Lake Tahoe > W Shore > Eagle Creek Canyon

Description

About 90' tall (whoddathunk it?), 90 foot wall is a well-featured granite cliff that is very popular and easily top-roped... thus making it often crowded!

The wall provides a good selection of easy to moderate climbs - both face and crack. To set up top ropes, walk around to left. Most climbs have bolts up top, but it is wise to back them up because some of them are old, and all of them see a lot of action.

Gets sun in the mornings, so climb early in cold weather and late when its warm.

Getting There

Walk out of the Eagle Creek Canyon parking lot away from Emerald Bay and follow the waterfall trail (the big trail). After a few hundered feet, the path splits, go right and follow the loop trail. A little while later, the Vista Trail heads up and off to the right. Take it. Right before the bench that you may sit on to enjoy the beautiful vista, the trail turns sharply right. Don't turn right. Leave the trail and keep going straight over the large slabby rock, and about 150 feet later, The 90 Foot Wall will appear on your right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Wide Boy
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
Shuman The Human
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 78
Rentier
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Lost In Space
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 104
Strontium 90
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Bastille
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Relativity
TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 29
Casual Observer
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Alias Emil Bart
TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 46
Ripoff
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Never Ending Story
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
Fallout
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Bachar's Line
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 86
Holdless Horror
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Vintage 85
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Lightning Bolt
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Ice Nine
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Polar Circus
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
Tis-si-ack
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Dave's Run
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wide Boy
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Shuman The Human
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Rentier
 78
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Lost In Space
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Strontium 90
 104
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Bastille
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Relativity
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Casual Observer
 29
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
Alias Emil Bart
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Ripoff
 46
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Never Ending Story
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Fallout
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bachar's Line
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Holdless Horror
 86
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Vintage 85
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Lightning Bolt
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Ice Nine
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Polar Circus
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Tis-si-ack
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Dave's Run
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A few of the routes on 90 Foot Wall
[Hide Photo] A few of the routes on 90 Foot Wall
Ninety Foot Wall (Left).  The prominent crack on the left is Strontium 90. Vintage 85 is to the far right.  The climber is on Rip-Off.
[Hide Photo] Ninety Foot Wall (Left). The prominent crack on the left is Strontium 90. Vintage 85 is to the far right. The climber is on Rip-Off.
middle wall - lighting bolt is the obvious roof section
[Hide Photo] middle wall - lighting bolt is the obvious roof section
Beautiful day for a climb
[Hide Photo] Beautiful day for a climb
left wall, far left is Rentier and Strontium
[Hide Photo] left wall, far left is Rentier and Strontium

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian G.
PDX, OR
[Hide Comment] I thought this place was really fun. My partner and I had hiked all the way out to Eagle Lake and had found the place really crowded. After mulling the options we came hear. I had always avoided this place because I heard it sucked, it was crowded, it's only toproping...blah blah. I had a great time. The 5.9 crack up the middle of the cliff was just plain fun. This isn't the place to go if you want to crank out testpieces, but for an afternoon of climbing it's pretty good. May 25, 2009
[Hide Comment] KEEP YOUR DOGS ON A LEASH.

This place gets a lot of action, and is fun for cranking out a few climbs after work or whatever. Every time I go there, however, dogs are running around getting in everyone's way. They walk on my rope, snarl at each other, etc. If you want to bring your dog fine, but keep it leashed at the bottom of the climb you are on. May 31, 2012
[Hide Comment] Conflict at 90 Foot Wall / Emerald Bay / Tahoe

"Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"

That applies when out climbing, not just on this forum.

Took the whole family to 90 foot wall, which is well known to be "family friendly" due to a large staging area for the kids to stay clear of the wall when not climbing. Reality in climbing today is a legion of kids we are teaching to be amazing climbers who need rock time.

But then there's always the macho man with a fiance and something to prove who wants to start fights under people's climbing lines because he wants the routes to himself.

Here's reality: popular places like 90 foot wall are not going to become unpopular any time soon. There's no room for people to always have their own ropes up. Use good manners and ask people if you can either ride their line (if you feel comfortable with their set up) or ask them if you may replace the line with yours. But trying to start fights over it and trying to intimidate people will not work.

In fact, you might just get your teeth knocked out in front of your fiancé for your troubles.

So let's review:
"Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"
And, popular routes are crowded. Get over it. Apr 20, 2015
[Hide Comment] Now, for the 'normal' comments:

1. Great place to take the family. Everyone we met were very cool with one exception noted above.
2. Be aware you may ride someone else's line. Try not to hog a route if possible.
3. Great routes for beginners and intermediates.
4. PLEASE do not urinate or defecate within 200 feet of the river. We found quite a bit of toilet paper and fecal material along the river edge. There is a restroom 200 yards from the cliff. Please use proper sanitary field procedures if you must... Apr 20, 2015
Tatiana APD
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Bolts for anchors at the top of this wall. Very easy walk-off to climber's left, no rapping.
The entire wall is in the sun for most of the day, so it cooks in the warmer months. No shade options for your belayer (except for the chimney route). Jul 8, 2017
[Hide Comment] Hi All, any tips on backup pro? Do I need to bring a long static line or just gear for cracks? Thanks Jul 18, 2018
Michael Habicht
South Lake Tahoe, CA
[Hide Comment] ASCA just replaced all of the TR bolts September 2018. Bring a few long runners to equalize, no gear required. And if you care please donate to help fund projects like this in the future!
safeclimbing.org/help.htm Sep 19, 2018
Simon Leigh
SF, CA
[Hide Comment] Easily accessible area in a beautiful setting with moderate top ropes means this is guaranteed to be a bit of a mess. Tons of people in a limited space, off leash poorly trained dogs trying to get into your packs and sit on your rope. Normally crag dogs are chill but this area seems to bring the worst behaved dogs and climbers. Avoid IMO. Jun 11, 2019
Pete Zagorski
Fort Collins
[Hide Comment] Fun area, but I agree with Simon that this place is a mess. Upon arrival, we had mutlitple, un-anounced ropes thrown on us. My buddy even had a rope thrown on him while leading. Check your routes before throwing ropes, lean over the edge and wait for people to move after you yell "ROPE!". Jun 19, 2019
Tim Chi
Anchorage, AK
[Hide Comment] Taking some friends here to learn how to climb and belay outside. I saw that the routes can be set up as a TR from above. Can all the routes be top roped that way? Jul 18, 2019
Shaun Lorenzelli
Australia
[Hide Comment] Perfect this time of year, we were the only ones there. Bring long slings or cordelette, the anchor bolts are set back a few feet from the edge. Easy 5 min approach to the base and then a quick scramble up to the left to access anchors. Eagle car park fills up quick (even in winter) get there early Dec 2, 2020