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Elevation: 6,970 ft 2,124 m
GPS: 38.84929, -120.22588
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,833 total · 143/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 4, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Wrights Lake has been in the making for several decades. Development in earnest began in 1988 with climbers from Davis snagging many of the plum lines. In the early 90's the Spectrum Tower and Black Beauty wall were developed. More recently hard lines have been added around to the left.  Currently, the 30+ established routes are mostly intermediate to difficult (5.10 and harder), though the potential for many many more routes of all ranges exists. Bouldering is also plentiful in the area, and on the way to the cliffs. This secluded area sits north of Highway 50 just a little past Kyburz, which is a few miles west of Lover's Leap.

Clean, compact super solid granite is the only rock you'll find, and looks and climbs a lot like Tuolumne Meadows. This area is a dream spot for 5.11 trad climbers. None of the climbs give anything away and will test the mettle of many a hardman. Speaking of clean - this is the cleanest area I've ever been to for a base camp. Let's keep it that way! Pack out what you bring in, and don't cause undue distress to the surrounding wilderness. 1/3 of a mile north of the cliffs are the Enchanted Pools. A superb area of large swimming pools and a 35 ft waterfall 

You can camp for $25 a night in the campground down by the lake, or for those on a budget, you can camp either at Lover's Leap (with a bathroom) or at Phantom Spires (without) for free. There is al large camping at the base of the cliffs and the Enchanted Pools 

Traditional and bolted routes range from 70' to 120' in height. Topropes can be set up by climbing or one can hike up the gully trail to the right of the Black Beauty Wall. Some routes require 2 ropes or an 80m to set up. Most routes have been recently rebolted and re- anchored courtesy of  ASCA and local climbers.

Wrights Lake can be climbed as soon as Wrights Lake Road is cleared of snow (on heavy years it will be plowed by 4th July, light years much earlier). It can be climbed all summer but temps in the sun get too hot for hard face climbing. Mid summer the Main wall comes into the sun about 10.30am and Black beauty Wall about 1.30pm. If it's 90 degrees in Sacramento, Wrights Lake can be climbed in the sun or shade. Fall is excellent at Wrights. It can be climbed until Wrights Lake Road becomes impassable due to snow  

Getting There Suggest change

From the west:

Take Highway 50 to Kyburz, which is 31 miles east of Placerville. From Kyburz, continue East 4.9 miles to the marked Wrights Lake Road, which is a left turn.

Continue using the directions below.

From the east:

Head approximately 20 miles West on Highway 50, 4.1 miles past the small town of Strawberry (and Lover's Leap), to Wrights Lake Road, which is a right turn, though the sign is either missing or hard to see heading West. Continue using the directions below.

Once on Wrights Lake Road:

This will wander up a around for a while, getting narrower as it climbs. 8 long miles later (about 25 - 35 minutes, depending on who you get stuck behind, and what they're towing), you will be in Wrights Lake Park.

Driving from the visitors center, take the right at the sign for Twin and Grouse Lakes Trail, which will head you down a road for about a mile to a circular parking lot, which is at the end of the road. Park in this lot, and take off down the trail at the back left of the lot (the only trail). It has a gate, and is pretty close to the bathroom.

Hiking approach time: 20 - 35 minutes.

Continue down this trail about 100 yards to the point where the Twin and Grouse Lakes trail splits from the main path just before the small walking bridge.

Head through the woods on the Twin and Grouse Lakes trail about 1/2 a mile to the split, where you should go right. As you head gently uphill, a 30' rock band is visible about 300 yards away to your left. Drop the trail and head for the right side of this rock band about 100 yards after the split once the trail hits a grey slab. Once over the bulge that the rock band resides in, look for a gravel climbers trail that heads along in the direction you've traveled from the main trail.

This route will wander through the woods and into some slabs, where cairns will guide you in the right direction. Eventually the woods will fall away, and the trail continues along slab for the last 1/3 of a mile. Avoid the temptation of moving directly at the large cliff face and stay on the slab about 300 yards away parallel to the band, which is approaching on your right. Go just past perpendicular to the main wall, which is on the far left side of this cliff band, as it turns a corner. Walk around to the left of the shelf that makes up the climbing base for most of the established climbing at Wright's Lake, and up onto the shelf when the shelf level is only about 6 feet high.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wrights Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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