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Routes in Black Beauty Wall

Acrobat S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Essence T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lusty Vicar T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spanish Inquisition T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triple Decker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Velvet Gloves T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Troy Corliss et al
Page Views: 53 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aidan Maguire on Dec 29, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

one of the absolute best sport routes in Hwy 50 corridor!
Start up 20 feet of decent 11a climbing to a ledge.
The fun starts here. Launch into the action that is sequential, square cut, slightly overhanging powerful climbing. Gain the right facing corner (1 inch piece optional) and move up to the roofs. Climb amazing overhanging jug haul to get established on another no hands rest. climb hard technical arete with spoiler exit move to chains. Like nothing at Wrights lake.
Interestingly, there are 2 glue reinforced holds on this climb.
Rated 12a which seems a wee bit sandbagged but gym climbers would probably romp it. Despite the glue and the rests this is great climb

Location

Across the brush filled gully from the black beauty wall. Clearly seen in picture 4 of the Wrights Lake over view page as the white column/buttress and picture 6 as the overhang on the right

Protection

Bolts. Optional 1 inch piece mid way in corner.
TR is easy to set up from walk up

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