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Routes in Black Beauty Wall

Acrobat S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Essence T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lusty Vicar T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spanish Inquisition T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triple Decker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Velvet Gloves T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 371 total · 4/month
Shared By: snowhazed on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Super sustained thin crack, with three distinct cruxes. First and hardest a lieback move with poor feet, then a cool and funky mantel, then one more hard straight in move. Solid 10 plus in between. Very fun for how thin it looks.

Protection

small wires, doubles .4"-1", maybe a #1 camalot for the top. Bolted anchor.

Photos

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This is the essence of crack climbing. Pure, hard, unrelenting for the grade. Protects well but lying off and trying to place nuts and cams adds to the challenge.
TR can be set up with a tension traverse across from Velvet Gloves. A testpiece for the grade and great Valley training Dec 29, 2017