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Routes in Black Beauty Wall

Acrobat S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Essence T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lusty Vicar T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spanish Inquisition T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triple Decker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Velvet Gloves T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 61 total · 0/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Oct 2, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

Lusty Vicar begins just around the corner from the main face of Black Beauty Wall. It starts with an EASY (~5.9) pull over an overhang then ascends a not-steep flared crack. As you go up, the crack gets thinner and the climbing steeper.

The crack closes up as the wall gets vertical. There's a small pocket to reach to higher in the seam. This part is where the rating 'serious' is deserved.

After the pocket, you hit the crux - pulling through the roof via a flared jamcrack.

Protection [Edit]

Gear to 2". Chains up top. Suspect pro through the easy part of the climb but good pro at the crux.

As with all Black Beauty climbs, you may set a top rope by rappelling down from the anchors atop the cliff band or after climbing another route on the wall.

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Not R rated
beginning is un protected but easy Dec 29, 2017

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