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Routes in Black Beauty Wall

Acrobat S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Essence T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lusty Vicar T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spanish Inquisition T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triple Decker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Velvet Gloves T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 71 total · 0/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Oct 2, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Lusty Vicar begins just around the corner from the main face of Black Beauty Wall. It starts with an EASY (~5.9) pull over an overhang then ascends a not-steep flared crack. As you go up, the crack gets thinner and the climbing steeper.

The crack closes up as the wall gets vertical. There's a small pocket to reach to higher in the seam. This part is where the rating 'serious' is deserved.

After the pocket, you hit the crux - pulling through the roof via a flared jamcrack.


Gear to 2". Chains up top. Suspect pro through the easy part of the climb but good pro at the crux.

As with all Black Beauty climbs, you may set a top rope by rappelling down from the anchors atop the cliff band or after climbing another route on the wall.


- No Photos -
Not R rated
beginning is un protected but easy Dec 29, 2017

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