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Routes in Main Wall

Fin, The T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Fish Supper T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft
FA: Michael Creel 1989/90
Page Views: 697 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 2, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route heads up the face of the gigantic 100' fin that heads up the left side of the main wall. You can't miss it.

Climbing is face action up to the crux, which is just after two parallel bolts (there for aiding), and is a hard and balancy one-move wonder. Calling the move 5.11c is probably a sandbag; the its probably in the low 12 range by current standards.

If you choose to aid the one-move wonder 5.11c route, this is an excellent 5.10b THAT IS NOT ENTIRELY A SPORT ROUTE. There is also the tricky grear-protected roof move at the top. Anyone at the .10b level that heads up the route with merely a rack of draws will be quite surprised at the final roof-crack move that appears just before the top anchors.

As for the .11c variation, the one move wonderosity of the route doesn't justify climbing the route.

Protection

7 1/2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A recommended (but not required) 1/2" to 1" piece can be added to protect the final 10b crux before the top anchors.

Photos

Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
Yes, still the original 5/16" buttonheads. Jul 13, 2015
I'd love to give it a try, but I live in Spain now. Are the bolts still the 5/16" buttonheads? Those things sucked! Sep 30, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.12+ R
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.12+ R
Na, something's fukked up. I lead it with a guy that regularly pulls V11 boulder problems and neither of us could pull the moves, even on TR. Go back and lead it. Something broke or was chipped off. Sep 30, 2013
The beta for the crux, as I recall, is to clip the bolt (or bolts, if the two original 5/16's are still there), then crimp like a MF on small but reasonable edges, hike your feet up, step through to the L with your R foot, and edge with the outside edge of R foot on a small, insecure edge. Then execute an insecure and balancey step up and reach L to the arete. It's a move that's not easy to repeat even after you've done it. I'd be surprised if the hold have fallen off, the rock was quite solid, and traffic no doubt is low. Sep 29, 2013
J. Hickok
  5.12b
J. Hickok  
  5.12b
Very very hard crux that I could only end up getting on toprope - 12b/c??. The lead is solid 10 if you pull through the crux. I think the rock is excellent and the climbing fun, but I don't think I would call it runout (possibly PG13). Very beautiful setting and beautiful piece of rock. Aug 15, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.12+ R
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.12+ R
Something at the supposed .11c start must have broken. I onsighted beast of burden and was stopped cold on the start of the fin. I tried it several ways, even pulled through and clipped the bolt above to get a TR for the move. Nothing! I can usually pull .12 the first try and pull through a move of low 5.13. This thing was impossible for me so yeah, something broke and it's now next to impossible.

The climbing above was ok. Quite runnout but easy between bolts. An exposed route with amazing position, but I thought the actual climbing was mediocre. Would have been a blast to bolt on lead though. Jul 1, 2013
Four stars for sure! Heady lead. Jun 20, 2009
Back when we rated it, 11c seemed right. Compared to Beast of Burden or Neanderthal Dudes, the Fin is easier, right? But the crux is definitely a boulder problem - it took me several visits to redpoint. The reason that there are 2 bolts next to one another is not to make it easier to aid, it's because there was an incipient crack next to one, and I wasn't sure it was solid. Since it was the only pro, a backup seemed in order. Are the bolts still the 5/16" piece-o-crap rawl drives? I give this route 4 stars just for the way it looks. Oct 5, 2007
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
 
I think this was a great route... once i aided the crux. I can usually pull an 11c move without much difficulty, but was pretty dumbfounded on this one. So i agree with aron that it's probably ~5.12 for today's standards... either that or we were missing something.

But I dont' think this route should be rated 's'. It should be stressed that you should bring a 1" cam for the top, but once you've done that you should be fine. Oct 14, 2004