Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft
FA: Michael Creel 1989/90
Page Views: 1,097 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 2, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route heads up the face of the gigantic 100' fin that heads up the left side of the main wall. You can't miss it.

Climbing is face action up to the crux, which is just after two parallel bolts (there for aiding), and is a hard and balancy one-move wonder. Calling the move 5.11c is probably a sandbag; the its probably in the low 12 range by current standards.

If you choose to aid the one-move wonder 5.11c route, this is an excellent 5.10b THAT IS NOT ENTIRELY A SPORT ROUTE. There is also the tricky grear-protected roof move at the top. Anyone at the .10b level that heads up the route with merely a rack of draws will be quite surprised at the final roof-crack move that appears just before the top anchors.

As for the .11c variation, the one move wonderosity of the route doesn't justify climbing the route.

Protection

7 1/2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A recommended (but not required) 1/2" to 1" piece can be added to protect the final 10b crux before the top anchors.

Photos