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Suggested Page Improvements to Wrights Lake


Todd Berlier
Mar 25, 2020
Is it possible to move wrights lake road boulders to hwy 50 or phantom spires...seems to make more sense.

Aidan Maguire
Nov 6, 2023
Description Suggestion

Wrights Lake has been in the making for several decades. Development in earnest began in 1988 with climbers from Davis snagging many of the plum lines. In the early 90's the Spectrum Tower and Black Beauty wall were developed. More recently hard lines have been added around to the left.  Currently, the 30+ established routes are mostly intermediate to difficult (5.10 and harder), though the potential for many many more routes of all ranges exists. Bouldering is also plentiful in the area, and on the way to the cliffs. This secluded area sits north of Highway 50 just a little past Kyburz, which is a few miles west of Lover's Leap.

Clean, compact super solid granite is the only rock you'll find, and looks and climbs a lot like Tuolumne Meadows. This area is a dream spot for 5.11 trad climbers. None of the climbs give anything away and will test the mettle of many a hardman. Speaking of clean - this is the cleanest area I've ever been to for a base camp. Let's keep it that way! Pack out what you bring in, and don't cause undue distress to the surrounding wilderness. 1/3 of a mile north of the cliffs are the Enchanted Pools. A superb area of large swimming pools and a 35 ft waterfall 

You can camp for $25 a night in the campground down by the lake, or for those on a budget, you can camp either at Lover's Leap (with a bathroom) or at Phantom Spires (without) for free. There is al large camping at the base of the cliffs and the Enchanted Pools 

Traditional and bolted routes range from 70' to 120' in height. Topropes can be set up by climbing or one can hike up the gully trail to the right of the Black Beauty Wall. Some routes require 2 ropes or an 80m to set up. Most routes have been recently rebolted and re- anchored courtesy of  ASCA and local climbers.

Wrights Lake can be climbed as soon as Wrights Lake Road is cleared of snow (on heavy years it will be plowed by 4th July, light years much earlier). It can be climbed all summer but temps in the sun get too hot for hard face climbing. Mid summer the Main wall comes into the sun about 10.30am and Black beauty Wall about 1.30pm. If it's 90 degrees in Sacramento, Wrights Lake can be climbed in the sun or shade. Fall is excellent at Wrights. It can be climbed until Wrights Lake Road becomes impassable due to snow  

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