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Routes in Watts Towers

Adult Books T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bandersnatch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Infectious Smile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Jemimagina T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sole Food T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talus Phallus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Urban Redevelopment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watt Me Worry? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

The climbing at Watts towers is mostly good. The routes range from 50 to 100 feet on light orange granite with some hard brown scale and some softer white areas. The crag faces southwest and gets mid-day sun until the evening sunset in the winter. There are few bolts at this crag, so bring your rack to lead and anchor the belays. The walk off is reasonable and brief, but does involve boulder-hopping.

The better rated lines here are all 5.10's and up, being Jemimagina (5.10b), Sole Food (5.10a) and Adult Books (5.11a). We found Urban Redevelopment (5.8) to also be a fun line, and Bandersnatch (5.10b) was good despite it's difficulty for protection and a few questionable holds.

Getting There

From the main highway pullout (used for Pep Boys Crag and the Milepost) park and look southeast across the road. A few broken looking domes and towers show in layers, to the right of the huge clean domes on The Cohn Property (private property & no climbing)

The one with the orange tint on the higher wall capped with obvious cracks and dihedrals is the Watts Towers. Although this crag looks difficult to access, it is not far away and is worth the walk in.

To approach, strike out from the car aiming for the far right end of that cliff band. Head up to a flat "pass" between the Towers and X-factor Dome (to it's right) and start boulder hopping up a brief gully. This will turn left and ascend a jumble of large stones and boulders (pretty stable) to reach the flat base below the Watts Towers climbs. The best area to unpack and get out the book is at the flat rock on the left (northern-most) end, which is below the route Sole Food.

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