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Routes in Watts Towers

Adult Books T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bandersnatch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Infectious Smile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Jemimagina T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sole Food T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talus Phallus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Urban Redevelopment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watt Me Worry? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Evans & Jim Angione, December 1986
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a great route on the left edge of the Watts Towers main buttress. Spot a single bolt on the left side of the wall perhaps 7 meters up and just right of the climb Sole Food. The climb Urban Redevelopment climbs easy but less protected 5.6 to this bolt, then up 5.8 moves on some crispy rock to reach a crack that appears mid-wall.Follow this line on trad gear to the top of the crag.

I'd have given the route more stars if there were fewer crunchy holds on it. While I don't see these as dangerous, they just are not as fun as solid climbing.

A few cams from 2"-3.5" can make a solid belay anchor up top, but you have to figure a way to keep the rope from dropping into the crack while your partner follows. This is the same anchor as for Sole Food and with some creativity, might be a TR anchor for both or either.

To descend, walk and scramble off to climbers right and then boulder-hop back up the gully to the base.

Protection

A little bit spaced out for pro and a single bolt that protects the crux move.Standard light rack + a few cams to set a belay up top.

Photos

Pete Johnston
Irvine, California
  5.8
Pete Johnston   Irvine, California
  5.8
this is a fun route, easier 5.8, if you stay just right of the bolt Aug 28, 2009