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Routes in Watts Towers

Adult Books T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bandersnatch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Infectious Smile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Jemimagina T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sole Food T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talus Phallus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Urban Redevelopment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watt Me Worry? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett & Alan Roberts, November 1982
Page Views: 109 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a great route on the left edge of the Watts Towers main buttress. Spot a stopper crack leading up the left side of the wall perhaps 8 meters to a hand-sized opening 1 meter long. Climb up this crack placing solid gear to the hand crack and beyond, to where the crack ends. You can get a piece in about every meter if you brought a set of stoppers and cams. Place the one small nut or RP at the top of the crack and head 2 meter up and right on face moves (5.9) to reach a second line, which also protects well on standard gear. Ride this to the top of the crag.

This second line you join to the right is the top third of Urban Development (5.8)

A few cams from 2"-3.5" can make a solid belay anchor up top, but you have to figure a way to keep the rope from dropping into the crack while your partner follows.

To descend, walk and scramble off to climbers right and then boulder-hop back up the gully to the base.

Nice route.

Protection

Although the only book I read refers to this as a 'thin RP crack' I only saw one RP placement. The rest would be solid large nuts and a hand-sized cam.Take a standard light rack and perhaps your largest brass nut, for the fun of placing it.

Photos

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