All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Johnson Canyon

Ancient Kingdom Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Ancient Kingdom

L › R R › L A › Z

	Babylonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Carmania T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Duel in the Sun S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	I Pee in Pools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Spanish Bayonet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:

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GPS:	34.08655, -116.15578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Vernon Stiefel on Dec 4, 2003 · Updates
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This crag is located on the south side of Johnson Canyon at the top of a northwest facing slope. You can see many different formations in the Indian Cove Campground looking north from the top. All of the established routes ascend cracks that range from finger width to offwidth on quality rock. Spanish Bayonet (5.9), a striking finger crack, is the gem of Ancient Kingdom.

Getting There

Approach Johnson Canyon on a trail that travels south across the road from the popular Short Wall. At the bottom of the wash is a prominent split boulder with bolt protected routes. It is best to remain on the north side of the boulder strewn canyon for fifty yards or so before crossing to the south side. An intermittent trail is present on the north facing slope of the south side. As the canyon veers south, the Ancient Kingdom is apparent high on the hillside facing Northwest. The formation is only about 400 yds up the canyon but navigating over numerous boulders makes it seem much further.