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Routes in Ancient Kingdom

Carmania T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
I Pee in Pools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spanish Bayonet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Lynn Hill, Roy McClenahan, Lary Stone & Jeff Sewell, April 1979
Page Views: 1,339 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Crux moves past a bolt lead into the crack proper which eats up gear, particularly hexes. Gear belay and walk off or rap from anchors atop Carmania.

A hidden gem of the Indian Cove area that's worth the somewhat arduous approach. Three stars out of five.

Location

The obvious splitter on the left side of the crag and left of the large corner system (Carmania).

Protection

bolt, pro to 3.5"

Photos

Phil Esra  
 
The wall is pretty easy to spot--look for the "V" made by the two cracks. The route is the vertical crack, with the other crack splitting off to the left. High up on the south side of the canyon. Nov 29, 2011
The Gray Tradster  
  5.8+
The photos were ripped from Socalhotclimbs by an anonymous coward and are of Tom Martin leading, taken by Wendell Smith.

Permision granted to leave them. Feb 12, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
The "solid TCU placments" that Vern mentions are in a loose flake of rock which surely would break if fallen on repeatedly. Feb 12, 2005
The Gray Tradster  
  5.8+
Did this route a couple of years ago, and again last year. The key foothold has gone from a thought provoking C shaped smear to a larger square cut hold. Chipping?? Agreed that the bolt is not required and the gear placement more confidence inspiring than the bolt anyway. Great route though and well worth the hike. Dec 18, 2003
Vern, you are correct. Lynn's lead was w/o bolt. An "R" start... Dec 18, 2003
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.9
Very fine climb with one superfluous bolt at the start of the short traverse (solid TCU placements are adjacent to the bolt). Apparently the bolt was added after the FA. Dec 18, 2003