Wheat Thin 

Really fun climb. Climb this route. It is definitely easier than it looks, on the upper section, the face has tons of good holds if you want to use them.

Please...please do not toprope this route on weekends when it is crowded. This is THE classic moderate route at the City. Twice I have been here and seen large groups of people TRing this route on a Saturday. If you MUST toprope it, come midweek when nobody is around. TRing this (or any other classic climb) on crowded weekends is selfish and inconsiderate. If you have lots of beginners that you want to take up on the weekend, take each one as a second, one at a time, and lead it over and over again. This allows other groups to jump in and lead through.

If there is a long line of people waiting to lead a route, I don't think anyone can complain. But the second time that I saw people TRing this route, my partner and I moved on to something else while the group behind us stayed around to climb this one since they had never climbed it before. Four hours later they were still waiting (maybe much longer, because we left). Yes, they could have moved on as well, but if the TRers had lead through each time, no one would have had to wait more than say 30 minutes. Moreover, the TRers were doing LAPS! Argh!

There are plenty of nonclassic, yet still good, places to TR on busy days. See, for example, Practice Rock.

Also, there is a walkoff down the back side.

Classic. Much better than Rye Crisp. Don't get sucked into the large crack at the end. Use the face.

A classic flake route at the City. This route has seen a number of Teva ascents for those looking for a little spice.

A great route. This eats a lot of nuts, and makes a great first lead at the city!

There is a section at about 3/4th the way up, where you have to rely only on the crack, that transitions to face climbing up a little higher that I would rate at harder than 5.7

The book calls it a "committing layback crux" -- I agree, its a bit tricky.

Vertical Country - Wheat Thin

Total classic. Take gear from a .5 to #4. Bring enough big cams up to set an anchor at the top. A 70 meter rope is required if you want to tr it. Best moderate I did at the city.

This route is one of my favorite trad climbs thus far. Very vertical, great placements, great anchor options at the top. Definitely can see why it is a classic. My partner and I could not find the anchors to rap off of, so we walked off the south side. It wasn't bad at all.

All around excellence - superb flake that leads to a fun lieback. Just as the flake thins out, holds pop back out onto the face for a good, clean finish. Classic.