Lots of great boulders lie next to the highway under the shadow of Lighthouse and Dolomite Tower. Believe it or not, there are even jugs to pull on if your hands are too shredded to jam. How often do you see that on desert sandstone?
Getting There
Drive north on River Road from Moab. A very short way past the Big Bend camping area, look for a parking area on the right(east) side of the road. This is the unmarked lot a short distance past the group camping spot. The boulders are obvious from the highway - look for the bright white chalk.
SDS on the big edge at the bottom of the arete. Make thuggy moves up and right. Heel hooks may help the swing. As you establish underneath the lip, make a huge move out right (hence the "Super") then move up to the bigger lip. Press it out and mark 5 points. Absolutely classic. ...[more]
This area is fun. One time I came to Moab and spent an entire week in this area alone. There's a silly chimney traverse thing, a couple of crack deals, and a bunch of huecos! I still can't stick that last dyno on Circus Trick... The lonely boulder (a quarter mile down the road towards Moab and back down a short truck trail) has some super-sweet problems on it.
Anybody know about the hard problems at Big Bend? I think Phantom Fighter-sit is the Klem problem just to the right of circus trick. But where is Hell Belly? Any other hard problems? Moab has a ton of undeveloped hard problems-anyone have recomendations for stuff off the beaten path?
This is the best place to boulder in the world! What an idillic setting, and the quantity of problems is remarkable! Even the sandstone is solid!! I spent an entire afternoon here and that wasn't even enough time to scratch the surface.
This place is great for a few days. Tent camping is a across the street. Lots of parking here as well. I think the problems are hard for the grade.Zero approach! Gets sun all day.
Big Bend Bouldering Area
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