North Six Shooter Peak Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 6,123 ft | 1,866 m |
| GPS: |
38.13741, -109.66805 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 93,860 total · 325/month | |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Apr 1, 2002 | |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Compared to the view from the top of North Six Shooter, the top of Castleton Tower might as well be buried under Lake Powell. Okay, I exaggerate--a bit. Still, this may be the most amazing summit I have ever tagged. The climbing ain't bad either.
North Six Shooter is the northwesterly of two spectacular towers (the other being South Six Shooter) that come into view on the left when Indian Creek Canyon opens up, past all the established cragging. It sits atop a massive talus cone and the east face offers one of the very best tower routes, the famous Lightning Bolt Cracks. A series of subsidary summits reach to the south. I don't know whether they have been climbed, but the southernmost summits in particular have some beautiful crack lines.
Lightning Bolt Cracks has cracks of every size with comparatively only a little offwidth. All the other routes follow crack systems that appear to have an inordinate amount of offwidth climbing. Liquid Sky, in particular, is an infamous body size dependent squeeze chimney through a roof, that parallels the roof pitch of Lightning Bolt Cracks. The first ascent was made in the early '60s by way of the chimney between the main tower and the next summit. From the notch, it finished up a decrepit bolt ladder.
To descend, rappel south from the summit into the aforementioned chimney/notch (check out the bolt ladder). Then, rappel from three somewhat dubious bolts down the *west* side of the formation to the ground.
Getting There
Drive west/north past Newspaper Rock and all the main buttresses to the Davis Canyon Road, around 14 miles beyond Newspaper Rock. The road turns 4WD pretty quickly. At one point you can follow a track to the right that bends around toward the base of the talus cone (the tower is west of the road, which curves back east after a couple miles). Our guidebook suggested approaching from the south. We attempted to do this and ended up following a line of cairns that led to horrifying 5.awkward soloing over the obvious white rim. Instead, aim for a break in the rim further north, then follow the rim until below the east face, where a passable trail takes you the final hump. Lightning Bolt Cracks and Liquid Sky are obvious above.
Classic Climbing Routes at North Six Shooter Peak
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