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Grain Surgery Wall
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Decompensator of Lhasa, The 
Deflowered 
Fist Full of Crystals 
Grain Surgery 
Hoopharkz 
Phineas P. Phart 
Super Monster Killer 

The Decompensator of Lhasa 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Charles Cole and Randy Vogel, February 1980
Page Views: 2,717
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 18, 2003
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Nice shot of the whole climb. Start off the block...

Description 

Located on the right hand face of the upper east side of Steve Canyon. Start off a boulder to the right of the large central chimney system (Hoopharkz, 5.4).

From the boulder, reach out right to a horizontal and the left-arching crack system above (small cams). A direct start is possible (5.11c/d) but the complete lack of pro keeps people off. Above, gear in the horizontal protects moves up to steep friction past 2 bolts (crux). Higher, a third bolt protects a traverse right to the arete where a 4th and last bolt protects moves to the top.

As an alternative start, begin some 15-20 right and below the boulder up right slanting cracks to a ledge (5.10a/b). Belay here (to avoid rope drag) and traverse left to the upper bolted face. This is actually the way the first ascent went.

When this was first done in EB's, the smearing seemed way hard; modern rubber has taken the bite out of the difficulty.


Protection 

Small to medium cams, 4 bolts.



Photos of The Decompensator of Lhasa Slideshow Add Photo
Fun moves
Fun moves
Just past the crux.
Just past the crux.
A climber nears the top of Decompensator of Lhasa, in Steve Canyon.
A climber nears the top of Decompensator of Lhasa,...
Joseffa Meir follows 'Decompensator of Lhasa' (5.10d) in Steve Canyon of J-tree. Photo by Tony Bubb 11/2010.
Joseffa Meir follows 'Decompensator of Lhasa' (5.1...
Near the end of the difficulties on The Decompensator of Lhasa (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
Near the end of the difficulties on The Decompensa...
T.D.O.Lhasa
BETA PHOTO: T.D.O.Lhasa
heading up TDOL..
heading up TDOL..
Joseffa Meir scans for some holds down low on 'Decompensator of Lhasa' (5.10d) in Steve Canyon of J-tree. Photo by Tony Bubb 11/2010.
Joseffa Meir scans for some holds down low on 'Dec...
Comments on The Decompensator of Lhasa Add Comment
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By David Evans
Jan 23, 2003

If you are tall (6'+) this route is a giveaway!

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 10, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

A nice route that doesn't see much traffic. The face climbing isn't as difficult or sustained as apperances might suggest. Three stars out of five.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

Not exactly super bomb pro for the crack leading to the face which precludes the cruxy area exiting the second horizontal.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

A great crack and friction combo climb!

I did the left approach (stepping off the block). I slung the block for protection until I got my first piece in and then had someone unclip it.

The crack bit seemed around 5.9 to me, and the protection at the top of the crack was a little fiddly. The bolts protect the friction climbing well, and the crux is definitely a steep smearing bit between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.

The final rounded arete is a blast! Must do IMO.

By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Do the right hand start for more bang for the buck. Its not very hard and it gives you a really fun traverse to reach the left arching crack (hopping off the big boulder looked scary and it skips some good climbing). Make sure and take advantage of ALL gear opportunities high in the crack in order to adequately protect the section leading to the first horizontal. The crack pinches off quickly and you may find your self pretty runout like I did. Great face climbing leads up and right past bolts to a very cool arete and then the top.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The rock on the slab is super solid and inspires more confidence than many a gritty face in J-tree. The climb offers variety, novelty and length sufficient to be one of the better single pitches in the park in my opinion.

By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Apr 26, 2012

I agree with David. I recall making one thin "intermediate" move at the crux which I was told would be unnecessary for a taller leader. I would rate this route a Billy Barty c/d. /Fun

By Richardo
Jan 16, 2014

Great route--As of December 2013, there is no bolt anchor at the top, contrary to the Miramontes guidebook...