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Deflowered
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 118
votes
Routes in Grain Surgery Wall
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Decompensator of Lhasa, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deflowered T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fist Full of Crystals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Grain Surgery T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hoopharkz T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Phineas P. Phart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phineas' Pinnacle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Super Monster Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01915, -116.16642 |
| FA: | Don O'Kelley & Dave Davis, October 1971 |
| Page Views: | 5,716 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Reynolds on May 15, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Deflowered offers a nice range of crack widths and styles over its length, starting with shallow, flaring twin cracks at the bottom before moving into a nice wide chimney, then a lieback flake, and finally a bit of steep, bouldery fist/OW to the finishing jugs. It's a fun climb in a location that has a really short, easy approach, yet doesn't have a lot of the traffic of the climbs closer to Hidden Valley. Not a showstopper, but definitely fun if you're in the area (and aren't you more or less always in the area?)
Vogel rates this climb a 5.6 -- if so, it's the hardest 5.6 I've climbed at JT. Feels like a good solid 5.7 in my book.
As you enter Steve Canyon from the direction of Hidden Valley CG, Deflowered will be on the right side, about two-thirds of the way up -- on the opposite side of the canyon from Super Roof (Vogel describes this section of Steve Canyon as "Upper East Side (West Face)"). Look for a large chimney that splits the face (5.4); Deflowered takes the slightly narrower crack that starts about 10 feet to the right (down-canyon). Start on top of a large block.
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