Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Grain Surgery Wall

Decompensator of Lhasa, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deflowered T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fist Full of Crystals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Grain Surgery T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hoopharkz T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Phineas P. Phart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Monster Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Don O'Kelley & Dave Davis, October 1971
Page Views: 3,437 total, 19/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on May 15, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


76 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Deflowered offers a nice range of crack widths and styles over its length, starting with shallow, flaring twin cracks at the bottom before moving into a nice wide chimney, then a lieback flake, and finally a bit of steep, bouldery fist/OW to the finishing jugs. It's a fun climb in a location that has a really short, easy approach, yet doesn't have a lot of the traffic of the climbs closer to Hidden Valley. Not a showstopper, but definitely fun if you're in the area (and aren't you more or less always in the area?)

Vogel rates this climb a 5.6 -- if so, it's the hardest 5.6 I've climbed at JT. Feels like a good solid 5.7 in my book.

As you enter Steve Canyon from the direction of Hidden Valley CG, Deflowered will be on the right side, about two-thirds of the way up -- on the opposite side of the canyon from Super Roof (Vogel describes this section of Steve Canyon as "Upper East Side (West Face)"). Look for a large chimney that splits the face (5.4); Deflowered takes the slightly narrower crack that starts about 10 feet to the right (down-canyon). Start on top of a large block.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" plus a few slings to reduce rope drag -- the route is straight up and down, but some pieces will have to be placed deep within alcoves and chimneys.
mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Definitely not 5.6, solid 5.7 and getting good pro can be a little tricky. Apr 8, 2011
Donno
Newport Beach
5.6
Donno   Newport Beach
5.6
I've caught 2 leader falls on this route: not for the new 5.6 leader. A classic Josh 5.6 Oct 6, 2009
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
Come on about the horror stories. This was my first lead in the (then) Monument. 14, tennis shoes, about six stoppers and hexes. Felt hard at the time, but I remember the variety of the climbing and savoring the summit. A good route, but it's trad. Plan accordingly. Apr 30, 2009
Instead of "Deflowered," I think a more descriptive name would be "Sold into Slavery and Gang Raped." The climb was heinous! Way harder than Suicide Rock's "The Plague 5-8" but a little less strenuous than "Flake Out's 5-7" unprotectable, skin-tearing chimney. The first 15 feet were an easy scramble followed by a nasty flaring chimney taking small cams way in the back. Upon squeezing upwards to right sided handholds, one climbs up and around a small flake then into another nastier chimney section and vertical flaring crack. The last 25 feet I managed to hold myself in place by squeezing a leg into the crack and awkwardly arm barring my way forward while sinking two #3 blue Camelots ahead of the mantel finish. Don't do this one without health insurance and anticipate the need for skin grafting and knee surgery! Two thumbs down. Nov 16, 2008
Mar' Himmerich
Santa Fe, NM
Mar' Himmerich   Santa Fe, NM
It was my 1st climb in JTree, with my first REAL climbing partner, Karl Kock (who eventually created the "Hardman" comic strip for "Climbing Magazine" 25 years ago).

It was supposed to be a 5.6, so we believed it. I wouldn't have known the difference, back then in 1980. Aug 26, 2008
Darren D.
  5.7
Darren D.  
  5.7
This one has an old-school feel to it. And I'm not old-school. But I liked in none the less. It might be 5.6 if you do it right. Rap rings to climbers left. Mar 28, 2007
vincent L.
Redwood City
5.7
vincent L.   Redwood City
5.7
5.7 for sure. i tried to chimney the route instead of going deep into the crack , big mistake as the chimney just flares and gets wider as you go higher. "Deflowered" is the perfecr name for this route as i felt i had been dealt the sandbag of a lifetime but then pulled through it with techniques i didn't know i possesed. an awesome route , awkward , painful, scary , FUN .

4 out of 5 stars Mar 12, 2005
Mike Hack
  5.7
Mike Hack  
  5.7
I climbed this route several years ago and remember not liking it much. I recall thinking it felt off-widthy, awkward and generally unpleasant. But it probably didn't help that my partner (mostly a gym climber at the time) decided not to follow, so I got to pull my own awkward gear on rap . . . Jan 28, 2005
Woody Stark  
5.7
I climbed this route quite a few years ago. Both my partner and I found it harder than six plus a little odd in a way I can't remember. I might go back just to see why it sticks in my mind; however, I don't think the reason is positive. Jan 27, 2005
Ryan Avery
  5.6
Ryan Avery  
  5.6
This odd climb is made fun by starting in the cave below the usual starting blcok. Adds a bit of caving expereince to the whole thing and an otherwise interesting climb.

Not for new leaders for sure. Jan 26, 2005
I led this on a very hot May day about seven years ago.Maybe it was the heat, but I thought it was pretty stiff for 5.6 Mar 3, 2004