The Big Short
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Tim Deroehn sends The Big Short
The Big Short is the most obvious, striking line on the tallest, steepest part of the Yellowjacket Boulder. The hardest moves are concentrated in the first 10 feet; however, the climbing on the upper wall remains relatively tough (mid 5.11) and is definitely heady. The Big Short is a tall problem; at Rumney, it probably would have been bolted.
Start in the scoop with your hands matched on a big sidepull/undercling. Make a move up to a pinch and figure out how to get your right hand in a high picket (crux). Surf out left to some cool crystally holds, and make deadpoint-style moves up the face until you reach a good ledge. Make sure to grab the left or center of the ledge, as the right side of the ledge devolves into a dubiously thin flake. The moves from the jug to the lip are just hard enough to keep your attention given the height.
Multiple pads and spotters
Getting ready to throw to the jug
Just past the crux, rolling to the cool crystal ho...
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Dec 3, 2013
Repeats this fall: Jay Conway (flash), Tim Jones, Francois Gauthier, and Tim Deroehn.