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Yellowjacket Boulder
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Big Short, The 
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The Big Short 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Knower, 8/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 21, 2013
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Just past the crux, rolling to the cool crystal ho...

Description 

The Big Short is the most obvious, striking line on the tallest, steepest part of the Yellowjacket Boulder. The hardest moves are concentrated in the first 10 feet; however, the climbing on the upper wall remains relatively tough (mid 5.11) and is definitely heady. The Big Short is a tall problem; at Rumney, it probably would have been bolted.

Start in the scoop with your hands matched on a big sidepull/undercling. Make a move up to a pinch and figure out how to get your right hand in a high picket (crux). Surf out left to some cool crystally holds, and make deadpoint-style moves up the face until you reach a good ledge. Make sure to grab the left or center of the ledge, as the right side of the ledge devolves into a dubiously thin flake. The moves from the jug to the lip are just hard enough to keep your attention given the height.


Protection 

Multiple pads and spotters



Photos of The Big Short Slideshow Add Photo
Getting ready to throw to the jug
Getting ready to throw to the jug
The moves after the jug
The moves after the jug
Tim Deroehn sends The Big Short
Tim Deroehn sends The Big Short
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 3, 2013

Repeats this fall: Jay Conway (flash), Tim Jones, Francois Gauthier, and Tim Deroehn.