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 ADVANCED
David's Castle (backside)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dish, The T,TR 
Nose, The T,TR 
Nuclear Cottage Cheese T,TR 
Ooga Chocka T,TR 
Overhang Direct T,TR 
Stupid Roof T,TR 

Stupid Roof 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Ben Fowler, Wes Love
Season: Summer (Evening) Winter (Morning)
Page Views: 360
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Davids Castle Backside Stupid Roof (5.10) Crowde...

Description 

This part of the wall could use some traffic. The rock quality is chossy, sharp, and brittle but I feel that with a little Top Rope traffic the wall and crack left of Stupid Roof could clean up nice.

BE CAREFUL if you choose to lead this route.


Location 

Can be considered in between DAVIDS CASTLE and DAVIDS CASTLE BACKSIDE.

Cliff right of 'The Nose'('Ooga Chocka', 'The Dish', 'Nuclear Cottage Cheese', etc...).

Cliff left of 'Rocky's Roof'(Electra, Caterpillar, Energy Czar, etc...).

Protection 

North Carolina Trad Rack. Small to Medium gear and extendable draws/slings. One old rusted fixed pin on the cliff left side of the roof.

DON'T TRUST the obvious undercling flake with a pin scar (chopped bolt) underneath the roof. It FLEXES. Good gear to the left of this in the vertical cracks.

Very chossy, sharp, and brittle after the roof. A hold broke near the top and I almost took a whipper.

Sling a boulder to set up a Top Rope or rappel off the 'Ooga Chocka' anchor to clean your gear.


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