Stupid Roof  5.10+

257 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Doug Reed, Ben Fowler, Wes Love Season:  Summer (Evening) Winter (Morning) Submitted By:  Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Davids Castle Backside

Stupid Roof (5.10)

Crowde...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This part of the wall could use some traffic. The rock quality is chossy, sharp, and brittle but I feel that with a little Top Rope traffic the wall and crack left of Stupid Roof could clean up nice.

BE CAREFUL if you choose to lead this route.

Location 

Can be considered in between DAVIDS CASTLE and DAVIDS CASTLE BACKSIDE.

Cliff right of 'The Nose'('Ooga Chocka', 'The Dish', 'Nuclear Cottage Cheese', etc...).

Cliff left of 'Rocky's Roof'(Electra, Caterpillar, Energy Czar, etc...).

Protection 

North Carolina Trad Rack. Small to Medium gear and extendable draws/slings. One old rusted fixed pin on the cliff left side of the roof.

DON'T TRUST the obvious undercling flake with a pin scar (chopped bolt) underneath the roof. It FLEXES. Good gear to the left of this in the vertical cracks.

Very chossy, sharp, and brittle after the roof. A hold broke near the top and I almost took a whipper.

Sling a boulder to set up a Top Rope or rappel off the 'Ooga Chocka' anchor to clean your gear.