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Routes in David's Castle (backside)

Dish, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nuclear Cottage Cheese T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ooga Chocka T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overhang Direct T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stupid Roof T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Wes Love & Clarence Hickman
Page Views: 1,549 total, 21/month
Shared By: chris mcguigan on Dec 3, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Right of Nuclear cottage cheese, crux is at the small roof. From the far left of the Back side of Davids Castle, look at the small roof and the climb is just to the right of the roof. There are two great ledges one before the crux and one after the crux to rest.

Protection

no bolts trad or TR, two anchors at the top most TR the climb
I'm not sure where the 5.8 grade on MP came from, but that is at best a TR grade. You need to be a solid 5.9 climber to lead this. Unless you double rope and climb up high on the right side for gear, you need to make sure you get great gear early and are comfortable either soloing the roof pull, or capable of hanging out mid-pull and getting the good gear over the bulge. It is harder than 5.8 to stop here and get the gear that will keep you safe. As others have already discovered and shared, you would be deluding yourself to trust in gear placed at the roof prior to pulling over the bulge. All this does, other than possibly providing a bodyweight peice from which to rest is extend your fall when the gear blows. May 24, 2017
Nate Thompson
Columbia, SC
Nate Thompson   Columbia, SC
Tried this route and took a big fall Saturday September 7, 2016. The problem is that there is little pro before the crux, so you must push through to place after the crux. When I fell I broke a flake off the area just prior to the crux. Sorry Mtn. Project fam.

The first 10-15 feet looked like I could find a place for pro, but I didn't actually place until I had gained the first ledge.

All and all this route is a little too chossy and deceptively bare. I would trad lead this with caution. Maybe I'm just sketched out, but climber beware.

Location as described on the site is accurate though. Sep 20, 2016