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Routes in David's Castle (backside)

Dish, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nuclear Cottage Cheese T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ooga Chocka T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overhang Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stupid Roof T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,125 total · 12/month
Shared By: John Saunders on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the cracks between Overhang Direct and Ooga Chocka. After a ledge about 20ft up, you'll reach a long wide undercling. Climbing up to the right of this undercling is more like 5.7, while climbing the smoother face to the left is the actual 5.9.

Protection

Two bolts if you wanna set up a toprope. Otherwise there are many good places for pro.

Photos

b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.9
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.9
Felt like this climb was pretty sustained. Perhaps no single "hard" 5.9 move but definitely sustained. Gear is there (TCU's are very big handy!) but some placements have to be made in less than ideal stances.

Red and Purple TCU's used. Also 0.5 and 0.75 BD cam. Jul 14, 2014

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