Separate Reality  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Ron Kauk - 1978 Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Oct 16, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Separate Reality. Photo by Marc Horan.

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Separate Reality is the photogenic, quintessential Yosemite roof climb. It's short, aesthetic, athletic, and buckets o' fun.

Take Hwy 120 out of the Valley and after going through two short tunnels, park at a paved pullout immediately before the third, long tunnel. Hike up the road to the mouth of this tunnel, jump over the stone wall, and follow a steep track down the cliff for 3 minutes. This deposits you at the top of the Separate Reality visor. Just before walking onto the slab, locate a good pine tree to fix a line to and do a short (40') rap down to a staging area at the base of the climb.

It's pretty obvious: Climb the steep lieback flake to a stance, then bust out the 20' roof to a wild series of moves at the lip.

Protection 

If you want to lead this on gear, I recommend a #3 Camalot for the belayer, a #1 and a #4 Camalot for the initial lieback section, and then a #3, a pair of #2s, a #1, and a 0.75 for the crack itself. However, a much easier option is to bring four or five hexes and long slings: One can easily pre-load the crack by dropping the hexes down in from above. One person should rap in first to direct this procedure.

Photos of Separate Reality Slideshow

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Stoked...	Oh yeah! photo by Dusan	Bald spot Bill rock scaling the mountain cliff of ...
Tommy Klinefelter climbing around 1987	German guy sticking the hold with the other hand	Separate reality
A German guy about to send	Bob Horan on Separate Reality.	Tom Callahan, 1983
My first and only attempt (so far)...two-hung it!	Wolfgang Güllich's free solo