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12 - Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie
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Separate Reality T 
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Separate Reality 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ron Kauk - 1978
Page Views: 44,558
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 16, 2006

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Separate Reality. Photo by Marc Horan.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Separate Reality is the photogenic, quintessential Yosemite roof climb. It's short, aesthetic, athletic, and buckets o' fun.

Take Hwy 120 out of the Valley and after going through two short tunnels, park at a paved pullout immediately before the third, long tunnel. Hike up the road to the mouth of this tunnel, jump over the stone wall, and follow a steep track down the cliff for 3 minutes. This deposits you at the top of the Separate Reality visor. Just before walking onto the slab, locate a good pine tree to fix a line to and do a short (40') rap down to a staging area at the base of the climb.

It's pretty obvious: Climb the steep lieback flake to a stance, then bust out the 20' roof to a wild series of moves at the lip.

Protection 

If you want to lead this on gear, I recommend a #3 Camalot for the belayer, a #1 and a #4 Camalot for the initial lieback section, and then a #3, a pair of #2s, a #1, and a 0.75 for the crack itself. However, a much easier option is to bring four or five hexes and long slings: One can easily pre-load the crack by dropping the hexes down in from above. One person should rap in first to direct this procedure.


Photos of Separate Reality Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on Separate Reality.
Bob Horan on Separate Reality.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Callahan, 1983
Tom Callahan, 1983
Rock Climbing Photo: Wolfgang Güllich's free solo
Wolfgang Güllich's free solo
Rock Climbing Photo: German guy sticking the hold with the other hand
German guy sticking the hold with the other hand
Rock Climbing Photo: Oh yeah! photo by Dusan
Oh yeah! photo by Dusan
Rock Climbing Photo: In the spirit of Halloween... Gotta climb 'em all.
In the spirit of Halloween... Gotta climb 'em all.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy Klinefelter climbing around 1987
Tommy Klinefelter climbing around 1987
Rock Climbing Photo: Bald spot Bill rock scaling the mountain cliff of ...
Bald spot Bill rock scaling the mountain cliff of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A German guy about to send
A German guy about to send
Rock Climbing Photo: Separate Reality panorama
Separate Reality panorama
Rock Climbing Photo: Separate reality
Separate reality
Rock Climbing Photo: My first and only attempt (so far)...two-hung it!
My first and only attempt (so far)...two-hung it!
Rock Climbing Photo: Stoked...
Stoked...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alain De la Tejera on Separate Reality  www.facebo...
Alain De la Tejera on Separate Reality www.facebo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Livingston reaching for the lip of Separate ...
Aaron Livingston reaching for the lip of Separate ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Kauk told me to wear the headband and I sent.....
Ron Kauk told me to wear the headband and I sent.....

Comments on Separate Reality Add Comment
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By m-earle
From: USA
Jul 30, 2007

yeah, feet first is pretty clutch. you'd have to be super human to do it any other way
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 22, 2009

One of the better videos
.
By Dean Hoffman
Sep 22, 2009

Trying to get a feel for how hard this is, how does it compare to say the Organasm or Castles in the Sand in Sedona? Thanks.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 23, 2009

Its harder than the roof pitches of either of those climbs.
By Tev
From: Hickory
Jun 13, 2012

According to the Ray Jardine website, he did the First Ascent on March 12th 1977 with pro and free ascended it on March 23rd of the same year.
By Mickey Sensenbach
From: San luis obispo CA
Sep 16, 2013

again just trying to see how hard it is, is it like the backer cracker in the first hand jam, just more steep? do you not need any thing bigger then a number 4 camolot? is it C1 so I can down aid if I have pro under roof and cant pull it?
By TradladReno
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Oct 16, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I wish there were a way to describe how absolutely perfect this route is. But I can't. Just go try it yourself. Also- Don't TR it. That's just silly.

Also also- Trying to drop hexes in from the top seems just as silly as TRing. Cams work just fine.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Oct 16, 2015

I'm sorry you found my suggestion silly but I think you missed the point.
By cannonjtc
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Amazing route! The location and positioning is unreal, get on it! I thought it was easier than "More Monkey Than Funky" 11c in J-Tree, even though it's longer and more sustained. For the roof I brought a #3, two #2's, and a .75 and was fine, just don't forget to bring the jumars so you can clean your gear if your partner isn't going to follow!

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