Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Eric Gabel, Linda Jarit, Chad Noble, Brent Botta... 01/05
Page Views: 856 total · 60/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Nov 25, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a pretty unique route. The climbing and rock are pretty good in a few spots (and dirty in many others) but what really makes it worthwhile is the position. It climbs right along the lip of a really steep wall and, combined with the slab of the Cookie Sheet below, makes for a really exposed endeavor. There are some decent runouts on traversing terrain and routefinding issues to deal with.The cherry on top is the descent, unique in all the valley. Altogether, a great adventure

Here's a thread with some more beta: Supertopo 

P1 - this is a total junker up through choss and dirt. Fire activity has mostly burned all the PO but has also made the soil very unstable. Anyway, aim up and right for a large, living pine tree. Pass this then head up and left through some mantles and bushes to the base of a nice handcrack

P2 - up the handcrack then step out on the slab to avoid bushes. pass an oak and belay near dead pine

P3 - locate the first bolt out right, climb past it, then keep going up and right passing one more bolt that protects a hard mantle move. I didn't find any pins on this pitch. Belay at one bolt with a ring on it and small gear. There's a 2 bolt anchor clearly seen out right that I think is the top anchor to 'the higher truth' on the sugar cookie, but you don't climb to it.

It sounds like many have bailed from this point, P4 looking a bit too gnarly. I think you could rap straight down and hit the anchor for 60/40 on the sugar cookie with one rope, but not 100% on that one. There is an easier variation to P4 that goes straight up. There is a bolt maybe 15 ft. up and bit left from the anchor. "Afraid of the Edge"

P4 - big exposure! the crux moves come pretty close to the belay so it may be better to have stronger partner follow. blowing it while following would result in a ride over the edge. there was nothing "blind" about the moves, imo, just a hard foot match. anyway, clip a bolt 15 ft. right of the belay, head up a corner, then traverse right to another bolt. easier and runout climbing leads up and right past one more bolt. I belayed on a clean slab with a horizontal crack for gear. They call this 5.8+... whatever... 5.9

P5 - head up the corner to get established on the upper slab, traverse straight right to a bolt and climb the arete on jugs. some more awesome exposure here. belay at some small, living pines.

P6 - this is kind of an unnerving pitch. head straight right, and even slightly down, to get established on the featured wall. follow the path of least resistance, mostly straight right. eventually, and hopefully, you will find a bolt. it's kind of hidden but just keep looking. Then head up to some black rock and perform some awesome and big moves on good rock, protected by good gear in a horizontal. You may wish to stop and belay at the big pine above. Otherwise, keep heading right on the dirty ledge to a big flake

P7 - climb the big flake/crack that leads to the top.

Location

Park on the west end of the longest tunnel on the 120. There is a nice pullout here. Hike down the gully, staying mostly under some powerlines. The going is pretty quick and easy, though fire activity has kind of screwed the area up a bit. Stay low towards the bottom, and then hike up just a bit once around the toe of the buttress. You'll be very close to the sugar cookie and cookie sheet area. Look for the nice pine tree on P1 to aim for.

Descent: Pretty neat! From the topout, walk west 100 yards or so, staying mostly level (don't really go up at all), until you see a chain anchor on a boulder. Rap (1 rope ok) to a nice ledge where a ventilation tunnel busts out of the side of the cliff. Hop the railing then walk to the main tunnel, turn left and walk out to your car. Bring a headlamp.

Protection

Light rack to 3 with extra #1 and #2 for P2

Photos

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