Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches|
|FA:||Eric Gabel, Linda Jarit, Chad Noble, Brent Botta... 01/05|
|Page Views:||856 total · 60/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Prince on Nov 25, 2018|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Here's a thread with some more beta: Supertopo
P1 - this is a total junker up through choss and dirt. Fire activity has mostly burned all the PO but has also made the soil very unstable. Anyway, aim up and right for a large, living pine tree. Pass this then head up and left through some mantles and bushes to the base of a nice handcrack
P2 - up the handcrack then step out on the slab to avoid bushes. pass an oak and belay near dead pine
P3 - locate the first bolt out right, climb past it, then keep going up and right passing one more bolt that protects a hard mantle move. I didn't find any pins on this pitch. Belay at one bolt with a ring on it and small gear. There's a 2 bolt anchor clearly seen out right that I think is the top anchor to 'the higher truth' on the sugar cookie, but you don't climb to it.
It sounds like many have bailed from this point, P4 looking a bit too gnarly. I think you could rap straight down and hit the anchor for 60/40 on the sugar cookie with one rope, but not 100% on that one. There is an easier variation to P4 that goes straight up. There is a bolt maybe 15 ft. up and bit left from the anchor. "Afraid of the Edge"
P4 - big exposure! the crux moves come pretty close to the belay so it may be better to have stronger partner follow. blowing it while following would result in a ride over the edge. there was nothing "blind" about the moves, imo, just a hard foot match. anyway, clip a bolt 15 ft. right of the belay, head up a corner, then traverse right to another bolt. easier and runout climbing leads up and right past one more bolt. I belayed on a clean slab with a horizontal crack for gear. They call this 5.8+... whatever... 5.9
P5 - head up the corner to get established on the upper slab, traverse straight right to a bolt and climb the arete on jugs. some more awesome exposure here. belay at some small, living pines.
P6 - this is kind of an unnerving pitch. head straight right, and even slightly down, to get established on the featured wall. follow the path of least resistance, mostly straight right. eventually, and hopefully, you will find a bolt. it's kind of hidden but just keep looking. Then head up to some black rock and perform some awesome and big moves on good rock, protected by good gear in a horizontal. You may wish to stop and belay at the big pine above. Otherwise, keep heading right on the dirty ledge to a big flake
P7 - climb the big flake/crack that leads to the top.
Descent: Pretty neat! From the topout, walk west 100 yards or so, staying mostly level (don't really go up at all), until you see a chain anchor on a boulder. Rap (1 rope ok) to a nice ledge where a ventilation tunnel busts out of the side of the cliff. Hop the railing then walk to the main tunnel, turn left and walk out to your car. Bring a headlamp.