Type: Trad, 6 pitches
FA: Eric Gabel, Linda Jarity. February 2004
Page Views: 31 total · 31/month
Shared By: Kevin Dixson on May 20, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Chill, interesting, dirty day out with a mindset for keeping it real. Our experience was slightly chossy but the surprise gloryhole descent really loosened us up for adventure. Get on this route and to clean it up for an epic line in a neat area.

pitch 1: choose your own adventure through loose blocks and trees on easy terrain. pass a giant pine tree and a bolted belay (dont use). walk up and left on a bushy, dirty ledge to the base of obvious right facing sick hand crack. sling a tree for an anchor. 5.6

pitch 2: starts same as edge of absurdity - shoot up the epic mcsplitter but short, right facing hand crack. We found this to be the route finding crux. the way we ended up going was up and left, up discontinuous cracks and a couple traversing face moves out to a *sweet* plushy ledge with a tree to belay from. 5.8 (the way we went)

pitch 3: couldnt find any 10c that the topo called out, but from the plush ledge go up the big flake, using it as good hands while traversing right on smearing feet. clip a bolt and pull this pitch's crux (5.9+), then up past a tree, then belay from the bolted anchors or second tree (to avoid rope drag) just below the HUGE right facing corner crux pitch. 

pitch 4: 5.11b crux. jam and lieback for a while up to the epic mantling exit. felt similar to the moratorium but quite dirty and mossy and ferny. continue up past some dirty 5.9 #3s low angle ledgey corner for 20 feet or so to a tree to belay from. you should be looking up at a little corner with an underclinging exit. this pitch has a lot of cleaning to be done as of May 2024.

pitch 5: go up the short corner, surmount it and go up the LOW angle slab to a 2 bolt anchor. its very hard to see, but its JUST to the right of all the dirt, and just below an undercling. short pitch, but would be bad to combine with p4. could be combined with p6. 50ft, 5.8.

pitch 6: traverse right for ~20 feet on 5.5 slab out to a single bolt almost even with the belay. go up (commit!), and a bit right towards the skyline to find where the gear starts about 15 feet up and right from the bolt. the further up you go the easier it gets. once you get up on a ledge, you should be at a 2 bolt anchor that's also pretty tough to spot. if you miss it, then just build an anchor on something that isnt lose (godspeed). 5.5.

pitch 7: 4th/5th class scrambling up to the top. pick a tree and belay on terra firma.

same descent as edge of absurdity. hunt around for the bolts with chains to rap down to the vent tunnel. they felt about 100 feet to the right of the top out.

Location Suggest change

Same as Edge of Absurdity. Follow the gulley down from the pullout east of the tunnel, staying right of the power lines. Don't follow directly along the buttress, stay in the gulley.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles 0.3" to 3" and a brush for cleaning moss. Perhaps a trowel for digging out dirty cracks if you're an earlier ascent crew.