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 ADVANCED
Saigon Boulder
Select Route:
Monkey Dihedral 
Saigon 
Saigon Direct 

Saigon 

Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 22'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Tommy Klinefelter
Page Views: 4,407
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Trying Saigon

Description 

This awesome singular prow problem on perfect rock is a 3 move wonder in between easier sections, but man, those are 3 killer moves.

Teasingly easy entry moves lead to two height-dependent crux sequences. For most taller people like myself, its a wild lean out right with the right hand to a sloper-type thingy utilizing a left heel hook. A left hand power up to a bulbous crimp sets you up for the big, flying move to a killer jug! Match and crank off a few knobs and small but positive plates up off the deck, to the blunt top out.

Other people may have to match hands on the bulbous crimp (YIKES!!) and continue.

IMO this is a height-dependent rating...

This boulder problem is sooo good, it got me psyched to get my pads out of storage!!

Protection 

crash pads and spotters till you get it wired


Photos of Saigon Slideshow Add Photo
Saigon
Saigon
Wills on Saigon
Wills on Saigon
Just after the crux
Just after the crux
This is definitely height dependent and is more like V8 for shorter people with the match on the small crimp.
This is definitely height dependent and is more li...
Aaron Brillhart on Saigon
Aaron Brillhart on Saigon
EE not making the match
EE not making the match

Comments on Saigon Add Comment
Show which comments
By AWinters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Mar 3, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

I agree that this rating is height-dependent. matching on that sloping bulb/crimp is heinous... don't fall off the top
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 31, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

That jug is sharp as hell.

The topout is a lot of fun too-- the holds are good, but you do gain some altitude up there.
By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Feb 8, 2011

FA was Tommy Klinefelter
By Andy Liu
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 24, 2013

By cbtacy
Aug 11, 2013
rating: V6 7A

If you're under about 5'6" this is legitimately V6.

Super good climbing.