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Routes in Saigon Boulder

Monkey Business V4+ 6B+ PG13
Monkey Dihedral V2 5+
Saigon V6 7A
Saigon Direct V8-9 7B+
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,238 total, 21/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Though not quite as classic as Saigon, this worthy line avoids the punchy Saigon crux via a direct line of holds to the left that lead to a traverse back right into the Saigon finish. In some way it seems easier than Saigon but maybe it's because I'm short. In any case, start as for Saigon. Instead of getting the left hand pinch/sidepull and heading right, move straight up from here via a couple of possible sequences to a high pinch/edge. This is where you start to feel the air beneath you a bit. Move right from this hold with difficulty and rejoin Saigon for the finish.

Location

Start as for Saigon and move right from the high pinch hold. The Superdirect (harder, scarier and even more proud) goes straight up from the pinch to slopers at the very top of the prow! I think the easiest downclimb option is to your right and down the slab from where you top out. Downclimbing the V0 patina face with care is also an option.

Protection

The ground is like cement here so several pads and a really good spotter are ideal. An uncontrolled fall from the crux pinch/edge could really hurt on this one.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Oh no Sam, that really sucks! Aside from how much fun the problems on it are, my clearest memory about the boulder is how remarkably hard the ground is underneath. I remember landing on my old Cordless pad, perhaps from the Saigon crux and going right through to what felt like cement and bruised heels. Good luck with the healing process! May 6, 2017
Use caution on this one. I fell moving off the pinch, landed on the boundary of two pads, went straight through, shattered my ankle, and broke my foot. The landing is more dangerous that its appearance suggests. The ground is hard. May 5, 2017
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra