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Saigon

V6, Boulder, 22 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 76 votes
FA: Tommy Klinefelter
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Buttermilk Country > Buttermilks Main > Saigon Boulder

Description

This awesome singular prow problem on perfect rock is a 3 move wonder in between easier sections, but man, those are 3 killer moves.

Teasingly easy entry moves lead to two height-dependent crux sequences. For most taller people like myself, its a wild lean out right with the right hand to a sloper-type thingy utilizing a left heel hook. A left hand power up to a bulbous crimp sets you up for the big, flying move to a killer jug! Match and crank off a few knobs and small but positive plates up off the deck, to the blunt top out.

Other people may have to match hands on the bulbous crimp (YIKES!!) and continue.

IMO this is a height-dependent rating...

This boulder problem is sooo good, it got me psyched to get my pads out of storage!!

Protection

crash pads and spotters till you get it wired

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Saigon
[Hide Photo] Saigon
Wills on Saigon
[Hide Photo] Wills on Saigon
Trying Saigon
[Hide Photo] Trying Saigon
Myself sending Saigon, circa 2001. This is still my proudest send in the 'Milks.
[Hide Photo] Myself sending Saigon, circa 2001. This is still my proudest send in the 'Milks.
Elijah Forbes on Saigon.
[Hide Photo] Elijah Forbes on Saigon.
JK down low
[Hide Photo] JK down low
Saigon
[Hide Photo] Saigon
Saigon
[Hide Photo] Saigon
EE not making the match
[Hide Photo] EE not making the match
Just after the crux
[Hide Photo] Just after the crux
Aaron Brillhart on Saigon
[Hide Photo] Aaron Brillhart on Saigon
This is definitely height dependent and is more like V8 for shorter people with the match on the small crimp.
[Hide Photo] This is definitely height dependent and is more like V8 for shorter people with the match on the small crimp.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

AWinters
NH
  V5-6
[Hide Comment] I agree that this rating is height-dependent. matching on that sloping bulb/crimp is heinous.. Mar 3, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  V5-6
[Hide Comment] That jug is sharp as hell.

The topout is a lot of fun too-- the holds are good, but you do gain some altitude up there. Mar 31, 2008
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
[Hide Comment] FA was Tommy Klinefelter Feb 8, 2011
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
cbtacy
  V6
[Hide Comment] If you're under about 5'6" this is legitimately V6.

Super good climbing. Aug 11, 2013
[Hide Comment] I would say its V6 for medium heights people such as me at 5'9". Jan 24, 2015
Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO
  V5+
[Hide Comment] I did this problem some time in 2001. It was rated V5 at the time, and felt sandbagged. I like the new rating better... It's definitely height dependent. Dec 26, 2016
[Hide Comment] Still not sent this rig ... super height dependent ... 2 completely different problems whether or not you can reach that right hand sloper. At just under 5'5" I can not reach it.

I agree with most that say you gotta be 5'8" or 5'9" or taller to get the V6 ... even then pretty hard at the grade (certainly harder than High Plains for most). Nov 29, 2017