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Safe Harbor South

Select Area...
a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector 
b. Electric Co. Sector 
c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector 
d. Machismo Sector 
e. Super Slab Sector 
f. Autumn Arch Sector 
g. The Righteous and the Wicked Sector 
h. Numero Uno Sector 
i. Train in Vain Sector 
j. Hydroman Sector 

Safe Harbor South  


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Location: 39.90803, -76.3642 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 76,871
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 18, 2011
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Dusk on the walk back to the car.

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Description 

Over eighty bolted single pitch sport routes along an abandoned railroad bed, a bit south of Safe Harbor Dam. Many of these have updated stainless steel hardware since their reopening in 2011, while some include 1980's or earlier vintage bolts and cold shuts.

Approaching from south to north, the climbing sectors reached (in order) are: Blood Sugar Magic, Electric Co., Tenuous Odyssey, Machismo, Super Slab, Autumn Arch, the Righteous and the Wicked, Numero Uno, Train in Vain, and Hydroman.

Eric Hörst's Safe Harbor Climbing website has a few mini-guide to climbing the south areas. The area divisions used here are his.

Getting There 

From Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). When Main Street ends in a T-intersection, turn left of River Road, and you will drive through Safe Harbor Park.

If your party has more than one vehicle, leave them at the park, and carpool from there.

Continue on River Road south for over a mile. Turn right on the winding and rural Green Hill Road. After around a mile, the pavement ends. Follow the road right and downhill, following a flower preserve sign. You'll reach the tunnel shortly. Park your carpool on the side of the road on either side of the tunnel, making sure not to block traffic. There's enough room for many vehicles to park here.

On the uphill side of the tunnel off Green Hill Road, follow a side trail uphill next to high tension power lines. It will connect you to the old rail trail (with no rails left) where it crosses over the top of the tunnel.

Warning: If you end up on the lower rail trail, with rails and trains running on it, you're off-route.

Hike the rail trail north to the first sector of Safe Harbor South (around 1/2 mile).

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

116 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',65],['1 Star',25],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',7],['5.8',8],['5.9',28],['5.10',34],['5.11',22],['5.12',9],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Safe Harbor South:
Public Service   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 74'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Eminant Domain   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Slab Master   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   e. Super Slab Sector
Mental As Anything   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   j. Hydroman Sector
Safe Harbor Direct   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Demon In My Semen   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   i. Train in Vain Sector
Tenuous Odyssey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector
Locomotion   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Electric Co.   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Autumn Arch   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Numero Uno   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   h. Numero Uno Sector
Urban Daydreams   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Super Slab   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   e. Super Slab Sector
Hydroman   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   j. Hydroman Sector
Doppelganger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Sugar High   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 35'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Machismo   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 65'   d. Machismo Sector
White Stripes   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Blood Sugar Magic   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 35'   a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector
Wonderama   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Browse More Classics in Safe Harbor South

Featured Route For Safe Harbor South
A nice picture of the corner.

Autumn Arch 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  PA : South Central PA : ... : f. Autumn Arch Sector
This route is fantastic - varied between the upper and lower halves, long, interesting moves and great stemming! Nice view from the top too. From the Rock & Ice guide published in issue #51: "Mega-classic corner with great stemming. Beware - A 165-foot [50m] rope is required to lower off this, and adjacent routes!"...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Safe Harbor South Slideshow Add Photo
Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south...
Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south...
Area overview, Blood Sugar Magic sector not shown,...
BETA PHOTO: Area overview, Blood Sugar Magic sector not shown,...
The Dam at Safe Harbor
The Dam at Safe Harbor
Sunset over the Susquehanna, from Safe Harbor Sout...
Sunset over the Susquehanna, from Safe Harbor Sout...
Safe Harbor South's walls parallel old electric li...
BETA PHOTO: Safe Harbor South's walls parallel old electric li...
the tunnel at the far side parking
the tunnel at the far side parking
Our very own "carriage road"
Our very own "carriage road"

Comments on Safe Harbor South Add Comment
Show which comments
By minquatrails
Mar 22, 2015
3rd bolt on Le Eaglet came out.
By Adam Marcus
From: Arlington, VA
10 hours ago
The following bit of the "Getting There" section is pretty confusing: "On the uphill side of the tunnel off Green Hill Road, follow a side trail uphill next to high tension power lines. It will connect you to the old rail trail (with no rails left) where it crosses over the top of the tunnel."

Here's some clearer directions: A few feet from the northeastern side of the tunnel on Green Hill is the start of an unmarked climber's trail that leads from Green Hill Road to the Enola Low Grade Trail (the rails-to-trails trail). Walk through the woods for 5-10 minutes, mostly uphill, until you emerge from the woods onto the Enola trail, which is 50+ feet wide, completely covered in gravel, and flanked by a line of power lines. Turn right (north) and walk until you see bolts on the wall to your right (about 1/8 to 1/4 of a mile).

Start of climber's trail from Green Hill Road to E...
Start of climber's trail from Green Hill Road to Enola Low Grade Trail
By Adam Marcus
From: Arlington, VA
10 hours ago
The powerline poles that run along the trail have plates with numbers. The tower closest to the trail to Green Hill Road is T 14. The tower closest to the Port-o-John is T 23.
Plate on one of the powerline poles showing number...
Plate on one of the powerline poles showing number (T 23)
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