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Onoclea

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East Face/Onoclea T 
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Onoclea 


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Elevation: 7,360'
Location: 39.9659, -105.2901 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,690
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: George Bell on Nov 30, 1999
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BETA PHOTO: From The Slab, 4/11/02.
  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This rock is on the north side of Fern Canyon, immediately north of Pellaea. Pellaea and Onoclea appear to be the same rock from many vantage points.


    Getting There 

    Leave the Fern Canyon trail in the same place as the approach to Pellaea (at present there is a wildlife closure sign and large mass of branches blocking the way where you turn off). Head up the easy gully east of Pellaea about scramble up this gully about 300 feet (watch for poison ivy).


    2 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


    Featured Route For Onoclea
    Looking down the lower part of Onoclea.

    East Face/Onoclea 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a  CO : Flatirons : ... : Onoclea
    Scramble up the gully east of Onoclea. Pellaea and Onoclea (named for two genuses of ferns) are separated by a deep notch, but this dies out into a crack at the base of the east face which is only a few inches wide. It is easy to hike too far, because it is hard to see the tops of the formations through the trees.Start the climb either up this crack, or up the face to it's right. This is the most unpleasant pitch of the climb as there are many pine needles on this face. I climbed up a scruf...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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    Photos of Onoclea Slideshow Add Photo
    Onoclea is the large and more Northwardly of the twin spires, appeasring as shown here as pprached from the gully east of this ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.
    BETA PHOTO: Onoclea is the large and more Northwardly of the t...
    Comments on Onoclea Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Mike Sofranko
    Sep 4, 2001

    As George pointed out elsewhere... Like Pellaea, this odd word is also a species of fern.

    By Tom Wilson
    Aug 15, 2002

    Some guidebooks describe this as 4 pitches.With a 50M rope it is no more than three pitches, two short and one long. It goes nicely in 2 long pitches with a 60M rope.

    Carry your boots on this one. The pine-needle-carpeted descent route is no fun in rock shoes.