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Mount Yonah

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Hobbits Perch 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mount Yonah Rock Climbing 


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Location: 34.6372, -83.7141 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 4, 2007
Forecast:
This Afternoon

81° | 60°
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78° | 61°
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72° | 58°
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71° | 54°
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68° | 52°
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Main face of Mt. Yonah at sunset, Fall, 2006.

Description 

A granite dome in north Georgia, Mount Yonah could fairly be called the state's climbing school. It's a long-time training site for Army Rangers and the scene of many first climbs by beginners.

The history of climbing at Mount Yonah goes back to around 1960, when the Army began using it for basic mountaineering training. A legacy of that period is numbers and colors spray-painted on the Main Face rock to identify routes, along with lots of bolts. The Army still trains at Mount Yonah, but the days of paint and indiscriminate bolting are gone.

In the 70s, non-Army climbers like Chris Hall and Dave Fortner put up harder routes in areas that didn't interest the military. Later FAs were made by Michael Crowder, Jody Jacobs and others in the 90s, not only on the Main Face, but at the White Wall and Middle Wall as well. Crowder has also been instrumental more recently in working with the Army to replace many of the older unsafe bolts at Mount Yonah.

It's hard to categorize Yonah in terms of being a trad or sport area, especially with some of its unique features. For example, the Army Balance Climb area has a cable bolted to the face, starting at the trail and going up and across the tops of the climbs; you can set up topropes simply by climbing the cable (most of these can be led as well). The color-coded Main Face routes are heavily bolted. On the other hand, the "civilian" routes at the right end of the Main Face are either straight trad or mixed, similar to Stone Mountain, NC.

Though it's primarily a single-pitch area, Mount Yonah has a fair assortment of multi-pitch routes. For most routes, a 60-meter rope is plenty, but some of the Balance Climb routes are very long, so you might need two ropes in places. The Main Face is southwest facing, making it unpleasantly hot in the summertime, but other areas such as the Lowers can be shady enough to be tolerable in hot weather. The approach is long and fairly strenuous (an hour or so of uphill hiking), so pack light (a full rack is unnecessary).

Camping is permitted in certain areas; check the parking lot kiosk for details. At the end of the day, the big buffet at West Family Restaurant on Tom Bell Road hits the spot, or you can drive into Helen for more choices.

Don't forget to bring your Dixie Cragger's Atlas, the only known guidebook for the area. Also, some handy topos and a trail map can be found at Michael Crowder's website.

Getting There 

Mount Yonah is located about 1.5 hours north of Atlanta near the town of Cleveland. From Cleveland, drive north on GA 75 2-3 miles and turn right on Tom Bell Road for a short distance, then left on Chambers Road. Take a left onto a gravel road which will lead to a parking lot at the trailhead. Hike the trail to the first Army LZ, then follow signs to the different areas (Main Face, Lowers, etc.).

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

126 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',5],['5.8',7],['5.9',11],['5.10',10],['5.11',8],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',11],['V2-3',24],['V4-5',7],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Yonah

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Yonah:
Indiana Jones   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 20'   Parking Lot Boulders
Yonah Boy   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   Parking Lot Boulders
Red Sparrow   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Parking Lot Boulders
Crawl Daddy   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 2 pitches, 15'   Parking Lot Boulders
Deadlift   V6 7A     Boulder, 14'   Parking Lot Boulders
Leviathan   V6 7A PG13     Boulder, 20'   Parking Lot Boulders
Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Main Face
Four   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   The Lowers
Three   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Lowers
Edges to Ledges   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   Main Face
Four Bravo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 65'   The Lowers
Special Edition   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Face
Dancing Girls   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   White Wall
Stannard's Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   Main Face
Eight   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   The Lowers
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Main Face
Return of The Jodi   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   White Wall
Think Pink   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   White Wall
Afternoon Delight   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 80'   Main Face
Kid Fears   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mount Yonah

Featured Route For Mount Yonah
Rock Climbing Photo: puling into the crux

Kid Fears Direct Start 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face
This is the direct line going straight up to the last bolt of Kid Fears and then finishing at the same anchors. The crux is in between the first and second bolt. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in GA

Photos of Mount Yonah Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Eubank, John McMullen, "Action" Jack...
Tim Eubank, John McMullen, "Action" Jack...
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama from the top of the main wall.
Panorama from the top of the main wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yonahhhhh..
Yonahhhhh..
Rock Climbing Photo: John McMullen top-roping boulder problem. Mt Yona,...
John McMullen top-roping boulder problem. Mt Yona,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mnt. Yonah from the air 09/08
Mnt. Yonah from the air 09/08
Rock Climbing Photo: It's not just a boulder.. its a rock.
It's not just a boulder.. its a rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: New parking lot (in lower middle) and valley from ...
New parking lot (in lower middle) and valley from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mnt.Yonah from the air
Mnt.Yonah from the air
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Yonah from the road
Mount Yonah from the road
Rock Climbing Photo: orgasm on the x wall
orgasm on the x wall
Rock Climbing Photo: beautiful day of climbing @ mount yonah
beautiful day of climbing @ mount yonah
Rock Climbing Photo: John McMullen top-roping boulder problem. Mt Yona,...
John McMullen top-roping boulder problem. Mt Yona,...
Rock Climbing Photo: South Overhang
BETA PHOTO: South Overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: sit start right of the tongue-like roof. climb rig...
sit start right of the tongue-like roof. climb rig...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peaking out from on top of the Patriot Wall.
Peaking out from on top of the Patriot Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiker's Cross
Hiker's Cross
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Eubank climbing at Mt Yona, late 1970's. Photo...
Tim Eubank climbing at Mt Yona, late 1970's. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yonah from the parking Lot
Yonah from the parking Lot
Rock Climbing Photo: John McMullen climbing at Mt Yona, late 1970's. Ph...
John McMullen climbing at Mt Yona, late 1970's. Ph...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiamaia V5
Wiamaia V5

Comments on Mount Yonah Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joey Wolfe
Feb 21, 2008
Anyone know anything about the Roadside Crag, Gumby Slab, The Hobbits Perch,The Chickens Roost,Patriot Wall/Super crack? Their location would be helpful. I found some info here coolclimbing.com/topos1.htm but I am looking for more. I've also heard there is even more climbs then listed on Crowder's site. I want to explore this entire area, so trail location/directions is what i really need.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 12, 2010
There is also bouldering here. You can download a Dr Topo mini guide from this website.
By george wilkey
From: travelers rest sc
Nov 26, 2014
if your trying to find your way to yonah the turn onto chambers road is actually a right turn, not left as the directions above state.

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