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Mount Yonah

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Boulder, The 
Hobbits Perch 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mount Yonah 


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Location: 34.6372, -83.7141 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 4, 2007
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Main face of Mt. Yonah at sunset, Fall, 2006.

Description 

A granite dome in north Georgia, Mount Yonah could fairly be called the state's climbing school. It's a long-time training site for Army Rangers and the scene of many first climbs by beginners.

The history of climbing at Mount Yonah goes back to around 1960, when the Army began using it for basic mountaineering training. A legacy of that period is numbers and colors spray-painted on the Main Face rock to identify routes, along with lots of bolts. The Army still trains at Mount Yonah, but the days of paint and indiscriminate bolting are gone.

In the 70s, non-Army climbers like Chris Hall and Dave Fortner put up harder routes in areas that didn't interest the military. Later FAs were made by Michael Crowder, Jody Jacobs and others in the 90s, not only on the Main Face, but at the White Wall and Middle Wall as well. Crowder has also been instrumental more recently in working with the Army to replace many of the older unsafe bolts at Mount Yonah.

It's hard to categorize Yonah in terms of being a trad or sport area, especially with some of its unique features. For example, the Army Balance Climb area has a cable bolted to the face, starting at the trail and going up and across the tops of the climbs; you can set up topropes simply by climbing the cable (most of these can be led as well). The color-coded Main Face routes are heavily bolted. On the other hand, the "civilian" routes at the right end of the Main Face are either straight trad or mixed, similar to Stone Mountain, NC.

Though it's primarily a single-pitch area, Mount Yonah has a fair assortment of multi-pitch routes. For most routes, a 60-meter rope is plenty, but some of the Balance Climb routes are very long, so you might need two ropes in places. The Main Face is southwest facing, making it unpleasantly hot in the summertime, but other areas such as the Lowers can be shady enough to be tolerable in hot weather. The approach is long and fairly strenuous (an hour or so of uphill hiking), so pack light (a full rack is unnecessary).

Camping is permitted in certain areas; check the parking lot kiosk for details. At the end of the day, the big buffet at West Family Restaurant on Tom Bell Road hits the spot, or you can drive into Helen for more choices.

Don't forget to bring your Dixie Cragger's Atlas, the only known guidebook for the area. Also, some handy topos and a trail map can be found at Michael Crowder's website.


Getting There 

Mount Yonah is located about 1.5 hours north of Atlanta near the town of Cleveland. From Cleveland, drive north on GA 75 2-3 miles and turn right on Tom Bell Road for a short distance, then left on Chambers Road. Take a left onto a gravel road which will lead to a parking lot at the trailhead. Hike the trail to the first Army LZ, then follow signs to the different areas (Main Face, Lowers, etc.).


Climbing Season


91 Total Routes


['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',3],['5.8',7],['5.9',5],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',10],['V2-3',23],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Yonah:
Indiana Jones   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 20'   Parking Lot Boulders
Yonah Boy   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   Parking Lot Boulders
Red Sparrow   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Parking Lot Boulders
Crawl Daddy   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 2 pitches, 15'   Parking Lot Boulders
Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Main Face
Four   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   The Lowers
Edges to Ledges   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   Main Face
Stannard's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   Main Face
Latest Edition   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Face
Four Bravo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 65'   The Lowers
Dancing Girls   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   White Wall
Obscured By Clouds   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Main Face
Special Edition   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Face
Eight   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   The Lowers
Stairway to Heaven   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Face
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Main Face
Face to Face   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   White Wall
Think Pink   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   White Wall
Return of The Jodi   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   White Wall
Afternoon Delight   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 80'   Main Face
Browse More Classics in Mount Yonah

Featured Route For Mount Yonah
Trench Boulder from trail

Trench Warfare V8 7B PG13  GA : Mount Yonah : Parking Lot Boulders
Start on left side of trench. Slopers to the right and top out near tree.Climb is at 1:22 of video: ...[more]   Browse More Classics in GA

Photos of Mount Yonah Slideshow Add Photo
Panorama from the top of the main wall.
Panorama from the top of the main wall.
Yonahhhhh..
Yonahhhhh..
Tim Eubank, John McMullen, "Action" Jackson, at a belay ledge on Mt Yona, late 1970's.
Tim Eubank, John McMullen, "Action" Jackson, at a ...
beautiful day of climbing @ mount yonah
beautiful day of climbing @ mount yonah
Mount Yonah from the road
Mount Yonah from the road
John McMullen top-roping boulder problem. Mt Yona, late 1970's. Photo Tim Eubank
John McMullen top-roping boulder problem. Mt Yona,...
Mnt.Yonah from the air
Mnt.Yonah from the air
Mnt. Yonah from the air 09/08
Mnt. Yonah from the air 09/08
New parking lot (in lower middle) and valley from the main wall
New parking lot (in lower middle) and valley from ...
John McMullen climbing at Mt Yona, late 1970's. Photo Tim Eubank.
John McMullen climbing at Mt Yona, late 1970's. Ph...
Hiker's Cross
Hiker's Cross
John McMullen top-roping boulder problem. Mt Yona, late 1970's. Photo Tim Eubank
John McMullen top-roping boulder problem. Mt Yona,...
orgasm on the x wall
orgasm on the x wall
sit start right of the tongue-like roof. climb right side of tongue and slide in on top and crawl out( on a side note it feels a bit skeychy: dragon slayer V2
sit start right of the tongue-like roof. climb rig...
Yonah from the parking Lot
Yonah from the parking Lot
Peaking out from on top of the Patriot Wall.
Peaking out from on top of the Patriot Wall.
South Overhang
BETA PHOTO: South Overhang
Tim Eubank climbing at Mt Yona, late 1970's. Photo John McMullen
Tim Eubank climbing at Mt Yona, late 1970's. Photo...
It's not just a boulder.. its a rock.
It's not just a boulder.. its a rock.
Comments on Mount Yonah Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joey Wolfe
Feb 21, 2008

Anyone know anything about the Roadside Crag, Gumby Slab, The Hobbits Perch,The Chickens Roost,Patriot Wall/Super crack? Their location would be helpful. I found some info here www.coolclimbing.com/topos1.htm but I am looking for more. I've also heard there is even more climbs then listed on Crowder's site. I want to explore this entire area, so trail location/directions is what i really need.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Jan 12, 2010

There is also bouldering here. You can download a Dr Topo mini guide from this website.