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Mid-Life Crisis 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bruce Morris, Dave Yerian (late 80's)
Page Views: 1,892
Submitted By: Bryan G on Nov 3, 2012

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An ocean of granite. Pitch 2 of Mid-Life Crisis.

Description 

This is an excellent slab adventure to the left of the Arches Terrace Route. Unlike most of the nearby routes, Mid-Life Crisis is actually reasonably bolted for someone climbing near their limit. The climb is fairly sustained with all four pitches clocking in at 5.10. Most bolts are two or three body-lengths apart, with a couple big runouts on lower angle terrain. Though very well protected by Valley standards, this is not a sport climb. Be prepared to make cruxy 5.10 moves while standing perhaps 5 ft above your last bolt, and keep it together while runout 40-50 ft on low angle (but blank) 5.8 friction. All bolts and anchors were replaced thanks to the ASCA and are bomber!


Pitch 1: Begin a short ways left of the start of the Arches Terrace Regular Route. A slab boulder problem gains a left facing flake. Climb this and place a couple cams from 1" to 1.5". Then step right onto the face and go up to the first bolt. Follow the line of bolts straight up to an anchor. There is a big runout before the last bolt, but the rock is lower angle and there are some good edges and features which keep it reasonable. 6 Bolts.

Pitch 2: Traverse left from the anchor to a bolt that's way out left and sort of low. I actually missed this one and ended up angling straight up to the second bolt on the pitch, which is a reasonable runout and will actually reduce your ropedrag greatly on the rest of the pitch. Climb over a small bulge and continue up through some really blank rock that fortunately has good friction. This leads up to another bolted anchor. 7 Bolts.

Pitch 3: Climb left into the white water-polished rock. Good edges but bad friction lead up past a couple bolts to a left-facing corner. You can place a small piece here (.25"). Step right onto the arete and follow it up until you can move further right. More friction climbing continues up to the anchor. 7 Bolts.

Pitch 4: Climb straight up to the first bolt and then move left to reach a vertical dike. This leads to a second bolt. Continue along another dike out right and then cut back left. The angle at this point drops off and you make a big runout to the top of the pitch. The bolted anchor you are looking for is located in white rock just below an obvious left-facing corner.

At this point it is possible to continue climbing for three more pitches on Friday the 13th (5.10b R) which will lead to a tree covered terrace just below the steep headwalls. Otherwise just rappel the route with two 50m ropes to descend. All of the belays are equipped with rap rings.

Protection 

Mostly bolts with a small rack. The only gear I placed was:

on pitch 1
a green (#.75) Camalot
a red (#1) Camalot (these pieces were right next to each other)

on pitch 3
a blue Metolius TCU


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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Nov 6, 2012

good TR with photos of the route:
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....