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El Capitan Base Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ahab T 
Bluffer, The T 
Captain Hook, Left T 
Captain Hook, Right T 
Delectable Pinnacle, Right  T 
El Cap Tree T 
Footstool, Right, The T 
Freeblast T 
Gollum T 
Hardly Pinnacle T 
Indubious Battle T 
La Arista T,S 
La Cosita, Left T 
La Cosita, Right T 
La Escuela T 
Little John, Left T 
Little John, Right T 
Mark of Art T 
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 
Moby Dick T 
Moby Dick, Left T 
Party Mix T 
Peter Left T 
Peter Pan T 
Pine Line T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 
Reeds Leads T 
Sacherer Cracker T 
Salathe (pitch 1) T 
Seedy Leads T 
Short But Thin T 
Simulkrime T,TR 
Slack ( center), The T 
Slack, Left, The T 
Sparkling Give-away T,S 
TRON S 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 

La Cosita, Right 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: TM Herbert, Steve Roper, May 1963.
Page Views: 3,129
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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was a little rough for my second lead in the valle...

Description 

This corner is just a little uphill from Little John.
Liback the corner to a ledge.

Protection 

Pro to 1.5".


Photos of La Cosita, Right Slideshow Add Photo
working my way up this slippery bugger...
working my way up this slippery bugger...
Finding a good rest half way up...
Finding a good rest half way up...
la cosita right
la cosita right

Comments on La Cosita, Right Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Jul 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

A really great technique builder! The inital lieback right off the ground is pretty slippery, and a fall here before getting a piece plugged in could result in broken ankles. Fun, but be careful! Definitely 5.9+ or 5.10a PG13.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Feb 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's a lieback, so, yeah, pro can be strenuous to place. However, there is plenty of pro placements available on this route, so I don't see adding PG13 to a well-protected lieback route or we'd have to call almost every lieback PG13. 5.9, period.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 23, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Zeke-
My impression of the PG13 is simply a cautionary statement, and that lets some of the noobs know that this isn't a pitch to be taken that lightly. Yeah, most liebacks are probably PG13, but it also depends on the leader's experience in placing pro and the reservoir of strength available. I didn't have any trouble placing any pro, but thought that others might...
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
May 18, 2011

Solid pro the whole way. You can sew the lower (crux) section with as much gear as you can place (providing you feet don't slip). Great Climb!
By Schurman
Jul 29, 2011

It doesn't have to be a slippery layback; it can also be done just as easily as a straight up crack climb - better for gear placements too. It's an honest 5.9 with good gear and rests along the way (not 5.10 IMO). Definitely fun!
By thecornyman
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 8, 2011

1st go plugged an orange tcu and slipped and pulled it for a ground fall. Second go it went free. I agree that you shouldn't add a pg 13 for a slippery start. It's a valley 9 for a reason. I climbed it as a straight in crack and felt that was easier for placing pro.
By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I was baffled by all the 5.9 rates of this climb. Not 5.9+, just run of the mill 5.9. I can see why the 5.11 and 5.12 leaders thought this was 5.9. Most of the raters do not give their ability and whether they lead this climb, onsight or otherwise. I really don't care what number you give this route, it is what it is, and 5.9 routes like this are not uncommon in my limited Yose experience. In fact most areas have climbs like this, usually with the dreaded + designation. But there will be extremely few 5.9 leaders that can do this onsight (it is straight forward).

For those that put faith in safety ratings, a word of caution is in order. The route protects very well. But the chance of an ankle injuring fall is quite good until you can get a piece in high enough to protect getting to your 2nd or 3rd placement. There is a world of difference between making a 5.9 move and putting pro in while in a 5.9 stance on lead.
By Yosemitesam
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Classic Yosemite 5.9. I really think that Supertopo is screwing people by calling the beginning of this thing a lieback. Stand at the bottom, sink a couple finger locks and then see if it still feels like a lieback.
It won't.
Straight in all the way!
Watched a dude lead it after me and he peeled off whilst liebacking the start, ripped his first piece, and busted his ass on the talus. Looked way strenuous.
Awesome climb!
By Edward_
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agreed with YosemiteSam, if you sink in the finger locks rather then lieback, it would be a lot more secure. My foot blew once or twice but the locks were super bomber.
By David Dennis
From: Central California
Apr 1, 2014

The corner is pretty greasy, but the start on this can definitely be climbed straight in as a finger crack. Perfect locks up to a nice pod, gear wherever you want it, just jam that left foot in the corner and smear with your right. Fun climb! I thought the moves exiting the roof higher up were more strenuous/thought-provoking.