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Routes in Base Routes

Ahab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bluffer, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Cap Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1-2
Footstool, Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Pinnacle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Arista T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Cosita, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Cosita, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little John, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little John, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moby Dick, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Mix T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reeds Leads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Neurotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salathe (pitch 1) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seedy Leads T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simulkrime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Give-away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TRON S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Pete Takeda, Eric Kohl
Page Views: 1,730 total, 14/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a fun route that can be top-roped after leading La Cosita Left or Right or it can be led. (Although we didn't lead it that day it seems like it would be a fairly civilized lead.) It starts by climbing the chimney of La Cosita Left. When you get to a finger crack that angles out right take that past a piton (additional gear can be placed along the traverse). After finishing the traverse go straight up past two bolts and finish at a two-bolt rappel anchor.

Location

This route is just to the right of La Cosita, Left.

Protection

There is a pin on the hand-traverse and then two bolts. You may want gear before the pin and after the second bolt. There's a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top.

Photos

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Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Bring a couple of finger pieces if you want to feel safe before jumping into the traverse. Otherwise you are soloing burly 5.10 and clipping the pin in the middle of the traverse seemed hard (I clipped gear and shot out to the corner directly). Bring a .75 or .5 BD if you want gear for the last few moves before the anchor (recommended). This climb is fun and perplexing at times. Highly recommended. Sep 9, 2012
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11a
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11a
A great route with two distinct cruxes.

It's better to place gear before the piton at the start of the hand traverse. Clipping the piton is tricky while in the midst of the traverse. Consider heel hooking the left corner while moving over to the great rest on the arete to the right.

The .11a crux comes between the first and second bolt. A reachy move (not necessarily easier if you're taller) will get you to a crimp, then another bolt. One more balancy .10d step around to the left leads to easier (5.7) climbing to the top.

Fun and well protected route. Not sure why supertopo suggests only toproping this route when the lead is safe. Mar 29, 2010
karcbr  
the route sparkling giveaway was done by keith reynolds and eric kohl
pete takeda had nothing to do with it! Mar 6, 2008