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Routes in Base Routes

Ahab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bluffer, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Cap Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1-2
Footstool, Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Pinnacle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Arista T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Cosita, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Cosita, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little John, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little John, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moby Dick, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Mix T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reeds Leads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Neurotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salathe (pitch 1) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seedy Leads T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simulkrime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Give-away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TRON S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dan Doody, Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Wally Upton, 1962
Page Views: 3,964 total · 41/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on May 3, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Start by scrambling up to the start of the short finger/hand crack in the left facing corner, and follow this to a small ledge at the base of the 3-4" crack in the corner. I found getting established in the crack to be the crux. Follow this to bolted anchors. I was barely able to jam my fists in the small constrictions, and I have somewhat large fists.

Location

Located in the left facing corner a short distance uphill from Little John Right.

Protection

Single rack to 4"

Photos

Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
 
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
 
We did this as a warmup before Moby Dick, and I thought it worked well. This crack is similar in size and somewhat steeper than the crack at the top of Moby Dick (although Moby Dick is not in a corner). This climb is fun, but I wish the fists portion were longer . . . May 3, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
If you wish the fists portion longer and about same difficulty go to Reed's and climb first two pitches of Flatus 5.9 with direct left start May 3, 2010
Skot Richards
Lakewood
Skot Richards   Lakewood
Just did this route april 2012... Super fun, good crack climb... Apr 8, 2012
Dave Millar
Boulder, CO
Dave Millar   Boulder, CO
Great climb to practice your butterfly technique. Sep 24, 2013
dnaiscool  
 
This climb makes 5.8's at other climbing areas feel like.... 5.6. If you feel the real need to work that wide, then have at this one, and bring that 4" gear. Mar 31, 2015
Laralyn Mowers
Astoria, NY
 
Laralyn Mowers   Astoria, NY
 
Maybe I just don't know how to work an off-width, but the top half of this pitch turned into an opportunity to practice the French Free. The rating seems a little soft for how technical that section is. I'd have rated it at least 5.10b. The rest of the climb is great though. Jul 12, 2017

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