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Routes in Base Routes

Ahab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bluffer, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Cap Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1-2
Footstool, Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Pinnacle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Arista T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Cosita, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Cosita, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little John, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little John, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moby Dick, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Mix T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reeds Leads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Neurotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salathe (pitch 1) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seedy Leads T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simulkrime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Give-away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TRON S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jack Turner and Royal Robbins, April, 1962.
Page Views: 7,172 total, 53/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

About 120' uphill from Moby Dick-Right Side is this 160 foot slab with a tree at the top.
This climbs a right facing corner with a small roof, 20' up. Continue up to a belay.
Continue up cracks to "The Improbable Traverse", to the left.
Belay at the base of a shallow, flared dihedral, leading to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2.25".
The cracks under rappelling station are perfect for getting rope stuck in. Coil the rope well and throw far before rappelling, retrieve rope from 3d class ledges on the left, not from directly below the rap chains. Sep 12, 2016
Arch Richardson  
  5.9
First pitch has a pretty burly 5.9 move. Don't feel bad if it shuts you down. Many of us have been shut down here over the years. Just because RR thought it was 5.8 doesn't mean you have to agree. Jun 24, 2016
Yosemitesam  
 
The crux on the first pitch is a little strenuous, but well protected and only a couple moves to a nice rest.
Found the "improbable traverse" not so improbable. Follow the finger crack to its end. Pop a piece in the corner and then step left on the only foothold around...
Last pitch is fun. More awkward than it looks, but not for long.
Good stuff here! Apr 17, 2013
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
 
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
 
I missed the p2 traverse! Climbed to the top to that death triangle at the top of the fingercrack/layback. There's one good bolt, two rusty nuts and one rusty bolt all teathered together w/ some tat.

That's a pretty killer pitch in it of itself; would be even more killer w/ some bonafied rap rings at the top ;). Anyone know if it's got a name? How about 'little john lost'? Mar 3, 2013
seldoon
California
seldoon   California
The last hand crack to the top is awesome fun. There is a fixed cam where you make the second pitch traverse. Dec 31, 2011
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Fun and challenging 5.8 climb. If belaying at the bolted anchors above the first pitch (Supertopo belay), be sure to extend pieces low on P2 to avoid rope drag once you get to the traverse. Leader can protect the "improbable" traverse for second by placing cam high in second vertical crack, midway across the P2 traverse. Can rappel from top of third pitch using bolted anchor and chains at the left end of the ledge (above Little John, left) with a 60m rope down to 3rd class ledges, or all the way to the ground with a 70m rope. Apr 6, 2009
Funny how the traverse is called "improbable." We thought it was pretty simple. Fun climb (first pitch was just so-so) to a perfect ledge.
It makes you almost feel like you are really on the big guy. But then you hear someone WAY up above you yell something and it puts you back in your place. Oct 11, 2008