It's a long toss. I'm sticking that sucker next t...
Description
Joe's Valley is one of the world's premier bouldering destinations. The sandstone boulders that line the hillsides are seemingly made for climbing: the rock is textured but skin-friendly, it's featured yet strong, and the landings are generally fantastic. Approaches are almost all 5 minutes or less, and many of the most popular boulders are just a stone's throw from the car.
There are hundreds of established boulder problems at the various areas within Joe's Valley, and yet a quick glance at the innumerable boulders farther up the hills hint at even more untapped potetntial for world-class bouldering.
While there are problems of every grade at Joe's, it is my impression that the best experience will be had at V4 and above.
Getting There
Joe's Valley is just outside of the town of Orangeville, UT. Take Hwy. 29 west out of Orangeville. Shortly after leaving town you can either take a right onto Route 57 to go to New Joe's, or you can keep going straight until the road branches into the Left and Right forks.
Driving time is around 2 hours from SLC, 6-7 hours from the Front Range in Colorado, 14 from Portland, etc.
Food and Supplies
There are a handful of stores in Orangeville, but the best place to go for food is the Food Barn. They even have copies of the Utah Bouldering guide in case you forgot to pick it up before heading out.
Camping
There are 3 main areas that are well-suited for camping at Joe's. Two are in the Right Fork at .9 miles up and 2.4 miles up (the first being at the Man Size area, the second at the Boux area)-- both are on the left. The third campground is 1.2 miles up the Left Fork.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Joe's Valley:
On the back side of the Buoux boulder there is an obvious offwidth crack (V0) that splits the boulder. Speed climbs the slab left of the crack. Tall, with a committing move near the top, this problem is highball for sure but totally classic. Move left to top out....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Here are some more detailed directions to get to Joe's Valley for ice climbing. These directions are from SLC.
Take the Spanish Fork exit (258?) off of I-15 to US-6, like going to Moab. Take the second Price exit to Hwy 10. Follow for 22 miles to Huntington. Continue for another 6 miles to the sign that indicates Joe's Valley on the right. This is Hwy 29. Follow this until the "T" intersection, and bear right. Follow this into Straight Canyon, and eventually to the reservoir. Most of the ice is in Straight Canyon, with some more up by the reservoir.
Also, here is a link to a remote weather station in Joe's Valley. www.met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman/meso_base.cgi?stn=JVAU1. You can view weather history, up to 30 days. However, the station is located at 8000 feet. Keep this in mind when making the decision whether to head down or not.
I would recommend the Video Guide to Joe's Valley a film by Nathan Cando, it goes through 28 of the classic problems and also a guidebook that plays during the movie. Found wherever climbing videos are available.
I hear (&see as posted) October is great at Joe's, but what about Mid to Late September? too hot? just right early morning late afternoon? or shady spots of canyon? Any beta the Sept weather would be sweet: thanks!
Haha, I don't know about "seasoned", but Caldiero's new guide came out recently, it is pretty easy to follow and It has most of the newer problems listed.
By Kegan Minock From: colorado springs Nov 3, 2011
why buy a guide book when mountain project has their app?!
A large organic pad (grey with green & blue streaks) and a black diamond drop zone were stollen from the Left Fork of Joe's Valley on Nov 3rd. The pads were briefly left on the side of the road beneath the gentleman's project just past the riverside parking area. Please contact Matt at 973-220-8222 or mpincus87@gmail.com with any information. Thanks
missing organic pad Submitted By: Kieran on Nov 4, 2011
I just got back from a trip to Joe's and I found Isaac's guidebook to be great (a million times better than anything else out there) as far as getting you to the areas and boulders. The pictures are great and do the rock justice. Some of the grades seemed off, A few route descriptions are not accurate (like Resident Evil) and there are some funny spelling mistakes (it's "Remnants" not "remnence) but I found that easy to ignore. The only thing I hate about it is the move-by-move beta description for each climb. I believe a proper guidebook should have clear description of start holds, finish and the line followed, nothing more.
I also noticed a lot of other climbers with the guide and no one was burning thier copy, so it can't be all bad
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