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Joe's Valley

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Left Fork 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Josephite Point Trail
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Joe's Valley  


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Location: 39.2765, -111.1739 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
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Description 

Joe's Valley is one of the world's premier bouldering destinations. The sandstone boulders that line the hillsides are seemingly made for climbing: the rock is textured but skin-friendly, it's featured yet strong, and the landings are generally fantastic. Approaches are almost all 5 minutes or less, and many of the most popular boulders are just a stone's throw from the car.

There are hundreds of established boulder problems at the various areas within Joe's Valley, and yet a quick glance at the innumerable boulders farther up the hills hint at even more untapped potetntial for world-class bouldering.

While there are problems of every grade at Joe's, it is my impression that the best experience will be had at V4 and above.

Getting There 

Joe's Valley is just outside of the town of Orangeville, UT. Take Hwy. 29 west out of Orangeville. Shortly after leaving town you can either take a right onto Route 57 to go to New Joe's, or you can keep going straight until the road branches into the Left and Right forks.

Driving time is around 2 hours from SLC, 6-7 hours from the Front Range in Colorado, 14 from Portland, etc.

Food and Supplies 

There are a handful of stores in Orangeville, but the best place to go for food is the Food Barn. They even have copies of the Utah Bouldering guide in case you forgot to pick it up before heading out.

Camping 

There are 3 main areas that are well-suited for camping at Joe's. Two are in the Right Fork at .9 miles up and 2.4 miles up (the first being at the Man Size area, the second at the Boux area)-- both are on the left. The third campground is 1.2 miles up the Left Fork.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.3 miles from here

355 Total Routes

['4 Stars',47],['3 Stars',161],['2 Stars',117],['1 Star',25],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',22],['V2-3',107],['V4-5',77],['V6-7',73],['V8-9',39],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',30],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Joe's Valley:
The Angler   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Left Fork : Riverside Boulders
Super Sloper   V3 6A     Boulder   New Joe's : Area 51
The Kraken   V4 6B R     Boulder, 35'   Left Fork : Raiden Area
Pimpn' Jeans   V4 6B     Boulder   New Joe's : The Closet
Bowling Ball   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Right Fork : Buoux Boulder
Frosted Flakes   V4 6B     Boulder   Right Fork : The Hulk
Pocket Rocket   V5 6C     Boulder   New Joe's : Anarchy
Self Service   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   New Joe's : Self Service
Kill by Numbers   V5 6C     Boulder, 8'   Left Fork : Mine cart area
Scary Monsters   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Left Fork : Big Joe
Low Tide   V6 7A     Boulder   Left Fork : Riverside Boulders
Wills of Fire   V6 7A     Boulder   Left Fork : Right Sign Area
Raiden   V6 7A     Boulder, 10'   Left Fork : Raiden Area
Planet of the Apes   V6+ 7A     Boulder, 12'   New Joe's : Chip and Dale
Chips   V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   New Joe's : Chip and Dale
They Call Him Jordan   V7-8 7B     Boulder   Left Fork : Right Sign Area
Feels Like Grit   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Left Fork : Riverside Boulders
No Substance   V8 7B     Boulder   Right Fork : No Substance
Resident Evil   V10 7C+     Boulder   New Joe's : Area 51
Black Lung   V13 8B     Boulder   New Joe's : Area 51
Browse More Classics in Joe's Valley

Featured Route For Joe's Valley
Brian Dalrymple on Team Effort

Team Effort V9 7C  UT : Joe's Valley : ... : Lower Hillside
This problem starts on two crimps then goes out left to a bizarre finger lock/sloper. Crux is holding the swing after doing the big move to one of the coolest holds I have ever seen (an ear like hold with a deep left hand thumb catch. Landing isn't too bad now that it has been built up, but some spotters are a must. A fall from up high would miss the landing and has the potential to be very bad. The grade given here is from the sit start. There is a stand that goes at V8- or V7+....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Joe's Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Looking towards New Joe's on a windy day.
Looking towards New Joe's on a windy day.
Frank loving every second of the sharp crimpfest, Jitterbug Perfume.
Frank loving every second of the sharp crimpfest, ...
isaac on the FA of death scream v10
isaac on the FA of death scream v10
good times in the right fork as tyson marshall walks up this perfect v10
good times in the right fork as tyson marshall wal...
Joe's after a spring snowstorm.
Joe's after a spring snowstorm.
isaac on the FA 2008
isaac on the FA 2008
Luke Childers loving the winter style camping on his 1st night at Joe's!!  Welcome...
Luke Childers loving the winter style camping on h...
beam me up scotty
beam me up scotty
the winds broke 2 of our tent poles
the winds broke 2 of our tent poles
v8
v8
death scream left project
death scream left project
death scream
death scream
v8 by new joes
v8 by new joes
huge problem by new joes v4
huge problem by new joes v4
The gang (Luke,Peter,Josh with Jay taking the pic) warming up on our 1st snowy day of the trip!!  soooo good people!!
The gang (Luke,Peter,Josh with Jay taking the pic)...
v9
v9
Kid climbed his first V00.
Kid climbed his first V00.

Comments on Joe's Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2014
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 11, 2006
Here are some more detailed directions to get to Joe's Valley for ice climbing. These directions are from SLC.

Take the Spanish Fork exit (258?) off of I-15 to US-6, like going to Moab. Take the second Price exit to Hwy 10. Follow for 22 miles to Huntington. Continue for another 6 miles to the sign that indicates Joe's Valley on the right. This is Hwy 29. Follow this until the "T" intersection, and bear right. Follow this into Straight Canyon, and eventually to the reservoir. Most of the ice is in Straight Canyon, with some more up by the reservoir.

Also, here is a link to a remote weather station in Joe's Valley.
met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman/me....
You can view weather history, up to 30 days. However, the station is located at 8000 feet. Keep this in mind when making the decision whether to head down or not.
By willo schubarth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 21, 2009
I would recommend the Video Guide to Joe's Valley a film by Nathan Cando, it goes through 28 of the classic problems and also a guidebook that plays during the movie. Found wherever climbing videos are available.
By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Jun 1, 2009
what's the best time of year for joe's valley?
By scott kuchinski
Jul 22, 2009
October is great. Average 50-70 degrees. Great friction.
By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Apr 6, 2010
Anyone know about access to the Innumerables? Is it okay to climb there? If so, where do you park?
By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Sep 1, 2010
I hear (&see as posted) October is great at Joe's, but what about Mid to Late September? too hot? just right early morning late afternoon? or shady spots of canyon? Any beta the Sept weather would be sweet: thanks!
By Emerson Takahashi
From: SLC, UT
Nov 26, 2010
Does anyone know how the bouldering conditions are in December/January...?
trying to make a ski/climbing trip this winter.
By wude72
Oct 27, 2011
Isaacs new guide book has excellent info in it. Pretty cool book too.
markhorclimbing.com/2011/09/jo...
By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Oct 31, 2011
how is Joes during early november?
By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Nov 1, 2011
Will, it is a bummer. A seasoned Joe's vetrean such as yourself would be better than any guidebook i have. Hope you are pulling hard man
By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Nov 3, 2011
why buy a guide book when mountain project has their app?!
By Kieran
Nov 4, 2011
A large organic pad (grey with green & blue streaks) and a black diamond drop zone were stollen from the Left Fork of Joe's Valley on Nov 3rd. The pads were briefly left on the side of the road beneath the gentleman's project just past the riverside parking area. Please contact Matt at 973-220-8222 or mpincus87@gmail.com with any information. Thanks
missing organic pad
missing organic pad
By Hoboken
Nov 20, 2011
Hey does anyone know how the temps are late December? is it possible to climb and camp during that time?
By Andrew G Nelson
Feb 16, 2012
@ Wude72 - How do I order the Joe's guide off MarkHor Climbing? Clicking add to cart doesn't do anything. Can't find it anywhere else.
By Kent Dunham
From: Alberta
Feb 28, 2012
Isaac's new guide is available at joesvalleyguidebook.com

pretty good I'd say.
By kiff
Mar 31, 2012
The new guide is a laughable POS
By Jon Lachelt
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 11, 2012
Knight, why is the new guidebook no good?

I'm heading there for my first trip, so I don't have any way to evaluate other than how it looks.
By Kent Dunham
From: Alberta
Apr 11, 2012
I just got back from a trip to Joe's and I found Isaac's guidebook to be great (a million times better than anything else out there) as far as getting you to the areas and boulders. The pictures are great and do the rock justice. Some of the grades seemed off, A few route descriptions are not accurate (like Resident Evil) and there are some funny spelling mistakes (it's "Remnants" not "remnence) but I found that easy to ignore. The only thing I hate about it is the move-by-move beta description for each climb. I believe a proper guidebook should have clear description of start holds, finish and the line followed, nothing more.

I also noticed a lot of other climbers with the guide and no one was burning thier copy, so it can't be all bad
By Emerson Takahashi
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2012
@ Hoboken
Depending on the winter we're having, YES, you can absolutely go and camp in the winter.

I was there on new year's and temps never dipped below freezing at night, and during the day in the sun it felt around 60 degrees. T-shirt weather no problem

Some winter nights can definitely be miserable though, so always keep an eye on weather.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 20, 2012
Honestly, it all depends on the year. I've climbed in January with no snow on the ground in some years, while other years you're post holing through 3 feet of snow. I would keep an eye on the webcams for the area (google it!) and see how things are playing out. If it's relatively snow free on the ground, go for it. As long as you're in the sun, you'll most likely be warm enough. If it gets too cold or snowy, bail to Moab or St. George. Camping will be cold though...
By Steven Wang
Oct 23, 2012
Hey everyone! A couple of friends and I are flying out to SLC to climb at Joe's over this Veteran's Day weekend, and are trying to figure out the most cost efficient way of finding crash pads. I've been looking around SLC and Price (where we're staying) for stores that rent pads, but haven't had too much luck. We're also considering Saran-wrapping several pads together and sending it as one oversized baggage for the $100/per way fee. Wondering if some of you awesome Utah locals could help us out:

1) Do you know any places that rent pads?

2) If you live nearby Joe's, or are on the way to Joe's from SLC via Price, would you be interested in renting out a few pads for the weekend (Sat-Mon)? We'd be willing to pay you in cash and/or beer, and leave ID's/deposit in case you feel uneasy. If you have 2-4 pads, that would be great!

Cheers, and thanks in advance! =)

-Steven
San Francisco, CA
By Jack Maberry
Nov 2, 2012
Steven, I sent you a PM.
By Greg Corn
Jan 8, 2013
I want to go to Joes/Ibex/Triassic in mid-March or should I go mid-April?
I have to book holidays and I want more sun than snow/rain. What do you suppose locals, is the better choice?
THANKS!!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jan 10, 2013
If you want a better chance of warmer weather and less snow (both on the ground and potentially falling from the sky), go in Mid-April. Mid-March can still be pretty hit or miss regarding the weather. The good thing about going in mid-April is that even if it's on the warm side, you can always find thins in the shade and/or go to higher elevations like Dairy Canyon. Hope that helps.
By db2882
Mar 7, 2013
I am looking at doing an extended trip to Joes Valley (3ish weeks) and I would not have a car. I had a few questions to see if this might be possible.

How close is the camping to town?
How close is the camping to the climbing?
What is the vibe/crowd like in early april? Would it be easy to meet people to climb with and go into town with?

These may be stupid questions, but I would love to hear from some one who knows the area better if they thing this it is possible to do.
By JJNS
Mar 15, 2013
If you bring a bunch of full strength beer I'm sure you will have no problems.
By user id
Mar 16, 2013
db-

While beer is always a plus, I haven't had a drink in Utah under 6% in years? JS has one good point, a kind offering of any nature will take the sting out of stuffing you into someone's already packed car?

The camping is about 2 to 3 miles from town.
The camping is at the climbing.
The vibe/crowd is great, just a few douchebags from avon?

I don't believe you'll have any problems at all? Meeting good folks down there is easy. The earlier/later you go the better, in the summer its a bit of a ghost town.

When are you thinking of going? I don't quite have the free time I used too, but if I'm down there when you are? I'll help zip you around.
By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Mar 30, 2013
Hey guys,

I'm headed out here Apr 6th for a week or so. I don't have time to wait for the guidebook to come in the mail, is it sold somewhere in town?

Thanks!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Mar 31, 2013
The guidebook is sold at the Food Ranch in Orangeville (like 10 mins from Joe's).
By Jake Charland
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2013
By bliss bouldered
Apr 21, 2013
Thinkin of heading out there later this week. What's the weather and climbing like? Much snow?
By Emerson Takahashi
From: SLC, UT
Apr 29, 2013
  • WEATHER*
You can find spots to climb in Joe's Valley YEAR ROUND, especially with the recent developments up in Dairy Canyon, where the elevation is around 8,500 ft.

Climbing Dec-Feb is very possible. Some weeks temps are in the 50's and it's all dry, some weeks are below freezing with snow everywhere.

Best time to go is March to May and then again around September through November depending on snow.

I don't really like going in April since all the spring breakers swarm the area, and my favorite time to go is late fall.
By JSirley
Sep 15, 2013
Was at right fork yesterday the access and parking was okay but the slopes feel pretty loose and a bunch of the camping spots are now wash outs. The left fork was still closed as of last night. New joes seems to be untouched just a few trails washed out. Thanks for the beta BD guy.
By Chris Simmons
From: Kingman,AZ
Sep 16, 2013
Any word if the roads are opening, wanted to travel up on Saturday and climb Sunday and Monday. Or if anyone has a number that I could contact to find out that would be great, thanks
By Rain
Sep 19, 2013
Anybody know if there's a good place to get wi-fi and a charge in Orangeville? I'm a traveling designer and really want to come back to Joe's for a few months this Fall, but I rely on my laptop based tech job to keep my dog and I alive. Kind of an odd question I'll admit, so if anyone has beta I'm grateful.

Update: There's wi-fi at the Food Ranch
By Mahcire
Sep 19, 2013
udottraffic.utah.gov/CLALertVi...
Says 29 is closed up to Emery county line. I'm not familiar with the area but that sounds like access is open up to the reservoir? I'm headed down this weekend, so I'll know for sure then.
By Leeanne
From: Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2014
Is beginning of August way too hot?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Apr 19, 2014
Leeanne- climbing might be tolerable in the shade, particularly in the morning and evening, and up in Dairy Canyon since it's a bit higher in elevation.

Climbing in the sun is likely going to be brutal. Temperatures will likely be in the upper 80's to low 90's.
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
May 30, 2014
Joe's Valley Adopt a Crag
Joe's Valley Adopt a Crag


1st Annual Joe’s Valley, Utah Adopt a Crag Saturday April 5th a Success!

Work gloves and coffee cups in hand, thirty rock climbers gathered last Saturday, April 5th at the Man Size camp in Joe’s Valley ready to give back to this increasingly popular rock climbing destination. The Food Ranch in Orangeville kicked off the work day with their donation of amazing donuts and coffee.

The Bureau of Land Management and Forest Service worked alongside climbers putting in 200 hours of work. Volunteers eliminated superfluous fire rings and removed at least a thousand pounds of ash from the Man Size Camp fire pits. In an attempt to curb camp site creep, parking areas and campsites were delineated. Two informational kiosks were installed to educate climbers about how to use Joe’s Valley responsibly to protect the watershed. Brats and brews were shared after the work with a BBQ provided by backcountry.com Detour and Shades of Pale Brewing Company. Leave No Trace was even on hand to discuss LNT principles to help climbers enjoy Joe’s Valley responsibly.

The climbing resources that exist in Joe’s Valley lie within both Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and United States Forest Service (FS) jurisdiction and are located in the watershed of Emery County. The Access Fund and Salt Lake Climbers Alliance have brought these land managers to the table along with local Emery County officials and Utah Tourism partners. The goal of this partnership is to enhance and protect access to the rock climbing resources while being good environmental stewards of the watershed.

The 1st Annual Joe’s Valley Adopt a Crag was a success, however Man Size Camp is but one area in Joe’s Valley in need of stewardship and climbers need to invest in the future of this area. The Access Fund and the American Alpine Club have granted the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance with funding to do a “Joe’s Valley Informal Trails, Disperse Campsites, and Bouldering Recreation Site Assessment”. This assessment was requested by the land management agencies and will advise resource planning for the future. The assessment allows climbers to influence how the climbing resources will be managed and gives ownership to climbers of a well-loved Joe’s Valley.

Please get involved with this effort by becoming a member of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and the Access Fund at www.saltlakeclimbers.org/membership. Membership dollars go towards future Adopt a Crags as well as to help fund the seasonal port-o-potties that the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance has provided at $2500/year for the past six years.

Thanks to all who came out to give their time and muscles to this Adopt a Crag. Stay tuned for upcoming Adopt a Crags happening in the Wasatch by LIKING the SLCA Facebook page and staying up to date at saltlakeclimbers.org.
See you on the rock!

Julia Geisler
SLCA Executive Director


kiosk and latrine
kiosk and latrine


adopt a crag joe's
adopt a crag joe's
By yann gauthier
Aug 17, 2014
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Oct 8, 2014
Adopt a Crag Oct 25th, 2014
Adopt a Crag Oct 25th, 2014


Joe's Valley Adopt a Crag

Join the SLCA & Access Fund at Joe's Valley Oct 25th for a climbers coffee and crag clean up.

sign up at saltlakeclimbers.org

FYI: The seasonal latrines will be put back out at Joe's Valley on Oct 20th. A big thank you to the Boulder Climbing Coalition for helping the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance to pay for the latrines for another season. Please consider contributing to the BCC and SLCA to keep this service in place.