Aaahh, the good stuff! This crack is good, and long! On the east side of Elephant Rock is the fence marking private property. The route is on the other side of that fence, and so your presence may be considered trespassing. Beware, and be courteous. Forty feet past the fence is a large boulder which forms a chimney with the face. There is a nice hand crack coming down into this chimney but not all the way to the ground. This is the Columbian Crack.
Start up the chimney toward the crack. A good option for protecting this start is to go around to the east side of the boulder before you start up and toss your rope over. Have your belayer belay from this side. Then you are essentially on TR until you get to the crack. Climb up to the top of the chimney and step out onto the boulder. Have your belayer come back around to the inside of the chimney. Now you are ready to go!
Follow the ever-widening crack to the top, passing one old SMC bolt and finishing at another single bolt. Belay at this bolt (I think you can probably get some other gear in around here, but I don't remember exactly).
Rappel off the anchors for Just Say No, or walk off the south side.
Protection
Same rack that you used on Rye Crisp. Standard rack, heavy in large gear.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jun 23, 2005 rating: 5.7
This is my favorite 5.7 at the City so far. Stiff and sustained for 5.7, and lots of varied climbing. The idea for protecting the chimney never occurred to me, but the climbing is fairly secure.
The "crack" is more of a flared groove and is not very fun. 2 stars for its length. Also, who is the idiot that placed 2 bolts right next to perfect gear placements on the upper half of the route?
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 6, 2006
Last I heard, this route is open to the public for climbing. Great route.
Not nearly as good as other routes in the area. I was not too impressed with this route. Still worth climbing and worth the less than 5 minute approach to get there.
By sqwirll From: Seattle, WA May 29, 2007 rating: 5.7+
This climb is great. Don't let the negative comments detour you from climbing this. I'm not sure where the flared groove comment came from, but it's a perfect hand and fist crack. A #4 camalot works nicely to supplement the one bolt anchor.
This is a fun crack that you don't have to jam much because of all the face holds. I wouldn't do it before Rye Crisp or Wheat Thin, but definitely worth doing if you are at Elephant Rock.
By Judson Widner From: Park City, Ut. Sep 20, 2009 rating: 5.7
I thought this was a heady lead, as the chimney starts those thoughts rolling! Save a # 4 for the top for some peace of mind.
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