From below the obvious, right-leaning, parallel cracks, climb up past bushes and follow the cracks for three pitches. Rappel off.
Pro to 2".
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Gemini starts at tree closest to white triangle ro...
|By Peter Valchev|
From: Truckee, CA
Oct 11, 2011
Right hand splitter (5.10b) is quite amazing too.
One way to do the approach is to do a 5.7 slab pitch to the tree... we tried to figure out the scrambling approach but it looks dirty and requires probably just as much time as doing the 5.7 slab... which starts only 50 feet from the trail
From the tree, one pitch leads to the fat bolts on top of the flake (no need to stop at the earlier bolted belay station) with a 60 meter rope... from there you could make it to the top directly, but it's better to move the belay up and right (small ledge/stance to the left of a bolted rappel station)
|By Lana dude|
May 28, 2013
The scramble approach around the toe got us lost. Came back next day and did direct start for better results. 5 pitches total. To approach the direct start head downhill 40 feet after the aqueduct goes into tunnel. As you skirt rock edge there's a wide step over a gap and shortly after you'll see a 15ft corner and a bolt above. Roped up here and could see obvious white scar further up wall to give our bearings. Fairly easy climbing although the gear and bolts were sparse enough to keep my attention (I'd avoid direct start if rock is wet). The rest of route protects well. On official pitch 1 we climbed the left edge of white scar feature past roof to a 2-bolt anchor under flake. We used this anchor to replenish rack, and make communication with belayer easier. Whole climb was enjoyable. It got windy in late afternoon as route went into shade. Took 2 raps to get down with two 60m ropes. Curious if it can be rapped with 1 rope for next time?