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Fool's Gold is the first (leftmost) route on the Corridor Face proper. It follows a prominent trough past a single bolt into and into a double crack system.
The cruxes are down low, at ten and twenty feet. The first is pretty much unprotected, but with a reasonably clean fall if you're well spotted. The second is slightly above your first gear.
The double cracks don't take gear the way you might hope, so don't pass up all of the pockets on your way up the trough.
All in all, a committing, relatively sustained, fun route at its grade.
Standard rack through #3 Camalot.
Pro is adequate, but not abundant. Passing up any of the good placements will probably set you up for a groundfall.
You're gonna want a spot at the start.
|By Rogers, Graham|
Dec 17, 2003
The first crux protects with a #3 Camalot; although not perfect, it seemed sufficient for the short, low-to-the-ground crux. The Camalot didn't get in the way of the move either, like I thought at first glance. Make two moves, then clip the bolt. Doubtful ground-fall potential if your belayer belays OK, and if the gear comes out, it should slow you down at least.
From: Newport Beach
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
TR'd this and thought it thin & hard: 5.9. A #1 Camalot will fit in the flaring pocket at the first crux but likely won't hold.
|By Aaron S|
Feb 25, 2012
The moves on this climb were surprisingly fun and it's not runout. The gear is a little tricky in spots but it protects well. I thought the crux move was pretty tough for 5.8.