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Farley Ledge

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Farley Ledge  


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Location: 42.59639, -72.44176 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,909
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robbovius on Jul 3, 2007
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Beautiful Fall day on Cuddlefish .11a benjamin-ma...

Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a large, multiple-outcrop, gneiss crag in Erving, MA (nearly to the NH border north of Springfield), close to Route 2 in western Massachusetts. It is somewhat secluded, not especially popular, though the rock and climbing are quality and enjoyable. Routes are trad, bolted, mixed, and top-rope-able. Grades range from 5.4 to 5.14b. Below and all along the crag, there is an extensive boulder field below with many enjoyable and challenging problems, from V0- to V12/V13.

Getting There 

The crag is right off Route 2 in Erving. From Route 2, either East or West, look for Holmes Street (heading west, it's on the right, heading east, on the left). Drive up Holmes street to Wells Street, take Wells to the end of the pavement, and turn right onto Cross St. The current Farley parking area is right there, literally in someone's front yard, identified by a large sign (with "Farley Ledge Parking" and various notices attached) and a series of posts stuck into the ground defining the parking area, and with a smaller sign attached to one post reading "8 Car Limit". As the sign reads, there is only room for 8 cars. A log-construction house abutts to the right of the parking area.

Expect a 20+ minute hike from the parking lot. The Farley trailhead is on the other side of the Log house from the parking lot, near a waist-high boulder, and with a square post at the trail head with the letters "M-M" painted on it in white. Follow this trail thru the woods (about 1/5th-1/4 mile) until you come to an obvious intersection at the cascades to the nearby stream, surrounding a large, angular boulder. The M-M trail continues off to the right over a wooden bridge, and the Farley trail continues into the woods ahead, across the dirt road heading left, and identified by a metal sign with the words "Farley Ledge" and a left-pointing arrow cut right into the metal.

Continue to follow this trail into the boulder field, and eventually you will see the crag appearing thru the trees on your right. Various small rockpiles/cairns identify trails heading up to the crag face.

To ensure continued access to Farley, respect for the landowners who have allowed access through their properties is paramount. Please be respectful of their yards and homes when visiting Farley. LNT.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.1 miles from here


Photos of Farley Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Farley.
Farley.
Leading an airy 5.5 on the right hand wall of the ...
Leading an airy 5.5 on the right hand wall of the ...
Patrick and I getting ready for another great day ...
Patrick and I getting ready for another great day ...
Robbovius leading a 5.6 fissured dihedral in the B...
Robbovius leading a 5.6 fissured dihedral in the B...
Fantastic unknown arete problem.  benjamin-mackall...
Fantastic unknown arete problem. benjamin-mackall...
Top roping a scary, airy 5.12 line on the Bat Cave...
Top roping a scary, airy 5.12 line on the Bat Cave...
Easy bouldering on one of the many opprtunities al...
Easy bouldering on one of the many opprtunities al...
A tall (70+ feet) fissured dihedral on the left ha...
A tall (70+ feet) fissured dihedral on the left ha...
Spring climbing accident at Farley (Jeep slid on t...
Spring climbing accident at Farley (Jeep slid on t...
Leading up the bolted 5.9- Air Blast line, on the ...
Leading up the bolted 5.9- Air Blast line, on the ...
Farley Trail Sign at the cascades.
Farley Trail Sign at the cascades.
Looking out at the anchors of Airblaster.
Looking out at the anchors of Airblaster.
Farley Parking...be considerate of the landowners!
BETA PHOTO: Farley Parking...be considerate of the landowners!
On some route.
On some route.

Comments on Farley Ledge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2014
By Peter Zpittvar
Apr 20, 2009
There is a new parking area for Farley. It lies about 0.5 miles west on Highway 2 of the old Wells Street parking lot described above. It's located on the old Lehman property. Turn left (towards the cliff) and drive up into a small gravel parking lot. Park closely to allow room for as many cars as possible.

Walk 5 minutes to the base of the Amphitheater area.
By jackkelly00
Jun 2, 2009
Does anyone know the grades for the upper tier crack trad routes... as many as possible if you know them.
Thanks
By jrathfon
Jun 3, 2009
2 posts needed on RC.knob and one at MP?

Did you check the areas forum?

mountainproject.com/v/eastern_...

The land owner's have specifically asked that guides not be published for the area (this includes online). That said if you show up, a local will show you around, me included. Chances are you weren't sand-bagged as what got an online "consensus" grade of 10b is (and has been for 3 decades) a consensus 8, and what got an online grade of 10c/d is a consensus 9. The routes are graded like New England climbs, not Rumney climbs (I know Rumney is in New England, paradox, eh?), i.e. know how to hand jam.
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
May 24, 2010
Speed of Life Video

Speed of Life (V10)
.
By RockinOut
From: NY, NY
Jun 29, 2011
Hasn't access been restored to Farley Ledge? I heard rumors that the Climbers Coalition came to an agreement with the landowners....any updates?
By Jeff Squire
Jul 22, 2011
Climbers have had access to Farley for the past 12 (?) years since the Western Mass. Climber's Coalition was created and got involved. The WMCC went so far as to purchase land to construct a public parking area in 2007/2008. While access has been GREATLY improved, we still don't own any of the land where the cliffs are located. The WMCC has a great relationship wth current landowners, but anything can happen. Additional land, including the cliffs, are being pursued but until it's sold, not much will change.
By Kaylee Catmull
From: Riverside, CA
Jun 2, 2013
Can't wait until the WMCC can move on the purchase of the land where the cliffs reside.
Awesome work with the Farley preservation project.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jul 16, 2013
Extra thanks to the WMCC and the Access Fund who recently did a lot of trail work at Farley! Excellent work! Finally made it back out here the other day for a very enjoyable day of climbing.
By Margie
Apr 22, 2014
Hi Farley climbers,
I went climbing at Farley on Sunday with a group of friends and managed to leave just one shoe (Nago, size 5.5, greenish-blue). If anyone finds (or already found) it please let me know! (power2runners at yahoo)
Thanks!
By SpencerB
Jun 2, 2014
Hi,
I was climbing the easy trad line just to the left of where the approach trail hits the main cliff on Sunday (6/1/2014) and found a cam and two quick draws on the route and anchor. Let me know if you forgot your gear and we can figure out a way to get it back to you.
By jpete60
Aug 25, 2014
Hello,
If anyone finds a pair of Green/yellow Evolv Pontas' right at the Main Wall, please please get in touch with me! jpeterson60 at gmail.com I forgot em Sunday 8/25. Thanks!