East Arete  5.8

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 22 pitches, Grade IV Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  fossana on May 5, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: the route

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Description 

History
According to Moynier and Fiddler the FA party is unknown. Galen Rowell and John Marinek believe they were the first party to ascend the full route proper in 1982, although it is possible that an indirect ascent was first made in the 1920s by Norman Clyde, Hervey Voge and David Brower.

Overview and Editorial Commentary
The route is asthetic, long, and climbed infrequently. On my first attempt I found the rock to be more grainy and crumbly than the rock that is found on more popular BCS routes like the N and NE Aretes. Our nerves were rattled after having soloed half the ridge, so we rapped off early (trip report here). Four years later I returned to complete the route alone.

Route Details
Gain the ridge at one of the notches between Peppermint Peak and BCS. There are several from which to choose of varying rock quality and difficulty. Depending on your downclimbing ability and preferences you may rap some of the notches. None of the downclimbs felt harder than ~5.5. There are many ways to go, but overall the routefinding was not difficult.

Climb the narrow arete to the top of a prominent square tower (5.8). Pass a number of gendarmes on mostly class 4 rock. Above another small notch climb a steep headwall (5.8). Secor grades this section as A0. Having stared at this section I wouldn't completely disagree. It is also possible to climb the face on the right side of the tower. The rest of the ridge is picket fence type climbing. Expect a few class 5 moves but it is mostly 4th. Follow it to the summit boulder.

Location 

Approach
From Mosquito Flat trailhead take the Morgan Pass Trail at the Mono Pass junction. After Long Lake several options exist:
1) Head S x SW on the slabs E of Treasure Lakes, aiming directly for Dade Lake or
2a) Continue on Morgan Pass Trail. At ~0.25 miles from the pass take the right-hand trail toward Gem Lakes. Go right and skirt the edge of the lake and the headwall to the reach easier terrain. Hike up the slabs and talus to reach Dade Lake.
2b) My favored approach. Continue on Morgan Pass Trail. At ~0.25 miles from the pass take the right-hand trail toward Gem Lakes. Head up the talus slopes on the left edge of lake and headwall. Staying in the gullies keeps the grade modest.

Skirt the eastern shores of Dade Lake heading for the long ridge between Bear Creek Spire and Peppermint Peak. You'll pass below the start of the NE Ridge, which is a possible descent option.

Aim for a notch between BCS and Peppermint Peak. Note that there are varying options for gaining the ridge, varying in rock quality. Choose wisely.

Distance: ~6.5 miles (with ~half of it off-trail)
Estimated approach time: 2.5 to 4 hours

Descent
From the summit head back north along the ridge for less than a hundred feet, then drop down to the west for another hundred feet (class 4). Head SW down sandy slopes. Alternatively, take the NE Ridge to the base (mostly class 3-4 although you main encounter a low class 5 move or two). Aim for Dade Lake then reverse your approach to the trailhead.

Protection 

- alpine rack
- 50m or 60m single rope

note: no fixed gear or anchors (a few rap slings of varying age)

Photos of East Arete Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: N, NE and E Aretes	Reflection of BCS, Abbot and Dade on Long Lake	BETA PHOTO: Notch where we gained the ridge on attempt 1 (easi...
BETA PHOTO: Scary, dirty, loose chimney I stupidly ascended. S...	Starting up the (not recommended) chimney (photo b...	Climbing out of the first notch (photo by Jascha)
On the ridge proper	The exposure starts	Jascha heading up the ramp on the other side of th...
The real exposure starts.	Scary slab moves on knobs (one of which broke off ...	Icy section (early Sep)
BETA PHOTO: Back onto the ridge	More towers	Gaining the ridge just before we bailed.
ice on Long Lake	Spire Lake and Peppermint Peak	first portion of the E Arete
second portion of the E Arete	the route starts near where the dark and light roc...	BETA PHOTO: better starting option (from attempt 2)
notch at the top of the chimney	south side of the arete	looking east
tunnel	BETA PHOTO: I aimed for the ramp system high and center.	looking down the ramp
one of the many spires	one of the talusy sections	another notch
I traversed around this tower as the rock didn't l...	looking east	progress so far
BETA PHOTO: crux headwall	starting the picket fence	one of the final towers
Sierra "class 4"	looking back on the route	picket fence
descent via the NE Ridge (Dade, Treasure and Gem L...	looking down the route from the summit	looking toward Dade from the summit