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Dragon's Den
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Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics 
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Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Mike Head
Page Views: 3,669
Submitted By: LeeAB on Apr 5, 2006
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Enzo heal hooking his way into the crux
  • East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    Once and still considered a mega-classic. Follow the left angling flake crack with good holds that are quite spaced and bad feet to its end on a monster jug. Make a huge move out left to an OK hold, heal hook right and go right hand to a gaston. Then swing the feet left to another heal and go to a left hand gaston, step up and top out.

    Alternately, go the the right hand gaston with the left hand as a side pull and make a big move straight up the blunt prow over a worse landing for a slightly harder and more direct finish. Seems to be rarely done, but it is actually quite good especially if you've done the original finish multiple times.

    Location
    Just left of Dry Dock around the corner following the sweet left arching flake/crack.


    Protection 

    crash pads and spotters, if you do the right finish you may want a few more pads as the landing zone then includes the rock shelf that everyone tends to sit on behind the problem.



    Photos of Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics Slideshow Add Photo
    Dragon Fly with the flake visible at the right.
    BETA PHOTO: Dragon Fly with the flake visible at the right.
    Mark? Setting up for the gaston to gaston crux, or you could go left to one of the visible sidepulls and cross to the second gaston which would make it a sidepull as well.
    Mark? Setting up for the gaston to gaston crux, or...
    Enzo campusing through the juggy rails in the middle of the problem
    Enzo campusing through the juggy rails in the midd...
    Trying to avenge cratering off the heal hook, those crimps are pretty sharp at the end of the day.
    Trying to avenge cratering off the heal hook, thos...
    Comments on Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Joe Collins
    Nov 22, 2007

    2 stars??? C'mon, this is one of the best boulder problems on the planet.

    By Jarred Cleerdin
    Jun 11, 2010

    As I pulled the top of this line it felt a little tweeky for the onsight maybe with diff beta its not so bad.

    By Tim Steele
    From: Bishop, CA.
    Dec 27, 2010

    Also used to be known as Dogmatics.

    By SJG
    From: Tallahassee, FL
    May 9, 2012

    really sweet line. I hope to get it next trip.