Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics  V5

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Type:  Boulder, 15 feet Consensus:  V5 [details] FA:  Mike Head Submitted By:  LeeAB on Apr 5, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mark? Setting up for the gaston to gaston crux, or...

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Description 

Once and still considered a mega-classic. Follow the left angling flake crack with good holds that are quite spaced and bad feet to its end on a monster jug. Make a huge move out left to an OK hold, heal hook right and go right hand to a gaston. Then swing the feet left to another heal and go to a left hand gaston, step up and top out.

Alternately, go the the right hand gaston with the left hand as a side pull and make a big move straight up the blunt prow over a worse landing for a slightly harder and more direct finish. Seems to be rarely done, but it is actually quite good especially if you've done the original finish multiple times.

Location
Just left of Dry Dock around the corner following the sweet left arching flake/crack.

Protection 

crash pads and spotters, if you do the right finish you may want a few more pads as the landing zone then includes the rock shelf that everyone tends to sit on behind the problem.

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BETA PHOTO: Dragon Fly with the flake visible at the right.	Enzo campusing through the juggy rails in the midd...	Enzo heal hooking his way into the crux
Trying to avenge cratering off the heal hook, thos...