Type: Boulder, 13 ft (4 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,691 total · 20/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Mar 1, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

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Access Issue: East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only Details
Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details


This problem begins under the roof matched on an undercling. Climbs through some compression moves until a toss into a pocket (inside a hueco). 4 stars for awesome holds, movement, landing and obvious line.

Beta: Start matched on the undercling and squeeze between two opposing feet. Through out right hand to an undercling and toss again for a 90 degree angled sloper. Right foot over to compress on a heel hook down and right of your hand. Bump left hand into a bad pinch eight inches from the starting hold and switch your left foot from a heel hook on the starting hold to a good toe hook. Sag. Match the other 90 degree hold right next to your left hand. Switch the right heel hook to pushing with your toe and do a dynamic move to the lip, you will begin to cut feet and swing out desperately so very quickly swing your right hand to an undercling a foot (back) into the cave. Heel hook up and match the large hueco. (This is the beginning of Try Hard FA Ricky O V5). Cross into an undercling pinch at the top of the hueco and left hand to a decent crimp. Switch you heel to a toe and surge up to a good but hard to hold hueco. Match your right foot to your left and toe hook the right undercling by your hand, reach up (slowly... slowly...) to a jug on the lip rock over.


As you approach the Central Dragon's Den (Hobbit Boulder?) you will walk underneath a roof (on that same boulder). Try Harder is that roof.


3 pads and two spotters.