Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dragon's Den

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,631 total, 26/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


70 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only Details
Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

A great problem with a tough opening move and a comitting move up higher to a cool mantle. The start holds are reputedly chipped out to be better, though there is so much chalk on them now that it is hard to tell though it seems plausible.

Start on the two positive crimps and get one foot or the other on and bust a move out right to gaston at the bottom of the crack. Get a foot up near the start holds and fall in to match in the crack. Layback up a move or two and make a long move up to a jug at the top of the crack. You can top out straight up but it is better to do another long move out right to another jug and hand foot match on the first and mantle from here up to some edges on the face above.

Protection

Pads and spotters.

Photos

Since when did starting on two obvious holds at face height make a problem contrived? Jan 20, 2014
Cesar Valencia  
  V5+
First move off the crimps was the crux for me since my feet cut. Thought it was hard for V5. Still managed to flash it though. Super fun climb. Nov 21, 2013
Rafael Rovirosa
Salt Lake, UT
 
Rafael Rovirosa   Salt Lake, UT
 
The first move is stupid but the rest of the line is awesome. I'd say its an easy V4 if started from the obvious start on the flake and V5 for the contrived start on the crimps. 3 stars if you start on the flake and 2 stars from the crimps. Jan 22, 2013
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
It's pretty obvious to me that the starting holds are chipped, having done the problem before and after the chipping. The chalk does little to hide the obvious chip marks. The original crimps were not that great, now they are finger buckets... Jul 19, 2010