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 ADVANCED
Dolores Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walking Enigma  T 
Air Time S 
Arm and Hammer  S 
Bearded Lunch Lady T 
Cinco Domingo T 
Crescent Crack  T 
Dazed and Confused  T 
Deliverance  T 
Duncan's Delight T 
Ear, The T 
Easy-Wider T 
Groove Tube, The T 
High Time T 
Honey Comb AKA BeeHive Buttress S 
Jive Turkey T 
Joint Effort T 
Lunch Box Special  T 
McComb Crack T 
Menstruation Station T 
Poppa Crack T 
Pump House Crack 
Rattlesnake Crack T 
Redemption Arete T 
Rizla's Crack T 
Rope Master's Crack T 
Seemter, The T 
Spooky Tooth  T 
Sunday Stroll T 
Swim Simulator  T 
Texas Corner T 
Unknown T 
Wind Tower, The T 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Dolores Canyon  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.8406, -108.807 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,852
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Dec 12, 2006
Forecast:
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Dolores River Canyon - Pump House Crag, awesome fi...

Description 

Dolores Canyon is a very nice, accessible canyon on BLM land that has camping, a river (sometimes), and quality Wingate sandstone rock. The climbs are 1-2 pitches in length, and the approaches are mostly short. The climbs face east or northeast, so this can be a bit chilly in the winter. This area offers seclusion in a wilderness setting.

Getting There 

Just south of Dove Creek on US Highway 666, there is a turn by the airport. There is a BLM sign that says "Dolores Canyon overlook." Turn down this road and take your first left by the airport, do not go to the overlook (unless you want to see the view). There may be signs to Mountain Sheep Point or the pumping station. Follow this road down into Big Canyon and the boat ramp at the pumphouse. Continue past the boat ramp to where the cliffs come closer to the road and the rock quality improves dramatically. There are several obvious buttresses, and some of them have routes on them. There are still opportunities for FAs here, too. The local ethic here is traditional (ground up). There is one particularly good buttress, just to the right of a drainage system, called Beehive Buttress.

Topos 

Topos from Ian Altman:

DOLO topos.
DOLO topos.


DOLO topos - Pump House Crag, close up on Red Rock...
DOLO topos - Pump House Crag, close up on Red Rock Simulator Wall. "Bee Hive Buttress" and the obvious arch/cave are just to the looker's right.


Dolo topos.
Dolo topos.


DOLO topos - Ten Mile Crag - 10 miles from Dove Cr...
DOLO topos - Ten Mile Crag - 10 miles from Dove Creek, CO.


DOLO topos - The Wind Tower - FA I. Altman, K. All...
DOLO topos - The Wind Tower - FA I. Altman, K. Allinger, & J. Kelly, 1995. FFA - I. Altman, J. Hooten, 2001.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.1 miles from here

32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',17],['5.11',9],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Dolores Canyon
Retro Groove Wall - Lunch Box Special, Groove Tube...

The Groove Tube 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Dolores Canyon
Climb a short, right-facing corner (5.9), gain a ledge, and then follow an awesome, shallow corner or groove (5.10) to near the top of the wall before traversing right (5.9) to hand and finger crack which leads to anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Dolores Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Retro Groove Wall hosting - The Lunch Box Special,...
Retro Groove Wall hosting - The Lunch Box Special,...
Unknown route.
Unknown route.
Wind Tower - bolt and gear protected stem box (5.1...
Wind Tower - bolt and gear protected stem box (5.1...
Wind Tower, 5.11***  200 feet.
Wind Tower, 5.11*** 200 feet.
Lee Unsoeld climbs the Honeycomb, 5.9*.
Lee Unsoeld climbs the Honeycomb, 5.9*.
Alexis Lang floats her way into Rizla's Crack -5.1...
Alexis Lang floats her way into Rizla's Crack -5.1...
Dolores Canyon map.
BETA PHOTO: Dolores Canyon map.
Unknown corner.
Unknown corner.
Unknown corner.
Unknown corner.
Area I have found most routes put up. Near pump ho...
BETA PHOTO: Area I have found most routes put up. Near pump ho...
Unknown route in the canyon.
Unknown route in the canyon.
Tana on unknown mod in Dolores Canyon.
Tana on unknown mod in Dolores Canyon.
J. Hooten straddles the summit of Wind Tower on FF...
J. Hooten straddles the summit of Wind Tower on FF...
Sunflowers above the canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Sunflowers above the canyon.
Wind Tower ~ splitter fingers with good feet all a...
Wind Tower ~ splitter fingers with good feet all a...
The Doloresq River Canyon near Dove Creek, CO Wind...
The Doloresq River Canyon near Dove Creek, CO Wind...
5.10 crack at 4.2 mile Crag.
5.10 crack at 4.2 mile Crag.
4.2 mile Crag.
4.2 mile Crag.
Crossing the river to climb.
Crossing the river to climb.
Besides no people, good camping, and a river, it's...
Besides no people, good camping, and a river, it's...

Comments on Dolores Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Johnkelley
Jan 31, 2012
Are people still climbing here? We put up several lines in this area in the late '90s/ early 2000s. The "unknown" photo of the 5.7/8 is the Red Rocks Simulator. Don't remember the name of the one called 5.10b in the photo, but Crystal Davis and I did the FA. I remember that we called the thin crack/seam that it shares an anchor with The Seamster.
By Johnkelley
Jan 31, 2012
The photo in the center, traverse in from the left to the finger crack, is Sunday Strole. Ian Altman did the FA with someone, sorry it's been a while and I can't remember.
By kyle a.
Mar 26, 2012
Good climbing, cracks and faces. The routes can be hard to find, Ian Altman in Durango has the topo and crag locator. Thanks, Kyle
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Nov 22, 2012
Lots of new bolts have been popping up lately, most recently on the left-most route at The Pumphouse. The bolts being used are total crap, hardware store Redheads (hanger is on a tiny grade 3, 5/16" stud), meanwhile the rest of the route is bomber Rawls. If you're gonna place a bolt, spend the money and order bomber ones from a reputable source, not Home Depot. As is stands now, all the Redheads should be replaced with something that is trustworthy.
By ian altman
Feb 28, 2014
Dolores River Canyon topos - "Pump House Crag" 4.3 miles from Dove Creek, CO. Our crew began climbing the obvious crack lines here in 1995 and quickly ventured onto the faces ground-up style throughout the early ots.

DOLO topos.
DOLO topos.
By ian altman
Feb 28, 2014
Dolores River Canyon Topos- "Pump House Crag" 4.3 miles from Dove Creek, CO.

Dolo topos.
Dolo topos.
By ian altman
Feb 28, 2014
DOLO topos - Pump House Crag, close up on Red Rock...
DOLO topos - Pump House Crag, close up on Red Rock Simulator Wall. "Bee Hive Buttress" and the obvious arch/cave are just to the looker's right.
By ian altman
Feb 28, 2014
Dolores River Canyon - "Ten Mile Crag" just 10 miles from Dove Creek, CO. We first climbed here in 1995 through the late '90s and did a few more in early '00s.

DOLO topos - Ten Mile Crag - 10 miles from Dove Cr...
DOLO topos - Ten Mile Crag - 10 miles from Dove Creek, CO.
By ian altman
Feb 28, 2014
This one is well worth the river crossing and the steep/loose approach. A real gem with one of the better Wingate finger cracks in the canyon! A unique stem box (protected by 4" Rawls :) to a dead vertical, splitter and locker finger crack surrounded by foot holds.
DOLO topos - The Wind Tower - FA I. Altman, K. All...
DOLO topos - The Wind Tower - FA I. Altman, K. Allinger, & J. Kelly, 1995. FFA - I. Altman, J. Hooten, 2001.