Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Ian Altman and Kyle Alinger, 5/5/97
Page Views: 1,149 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ian Altman on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This awesome finger crack follows obvious splitter up the center of this varnished face surrounded by lime green lichen and plentiful foot holds.

Follow a short corner w/ good gear placements (5.8) onto short slab section w/ a single bolt for protection (5.9). After climbing 35' up and left, join a splitter finger crack for 90 feet. The crack is mostly 1" fingers with the occasional hand pod (see gear recommendations) and climbs at mostly 5.9 and easy 5.10. Near the top, the crack slims and the face holds diminish; another bolt protects the crux (5.10+). The anchor is visible from the ground and is located above a small pinion tree on a sizable ledge, climber's left of the crack.

Location

Look for obvious face splitter above the road; the anchors are visible above ledge to the climber's left of the crack.

Protection

Gear in Friend sizes:
3/8"-3/4" - 2 each
1"-1.5" - 3 each
2"-3" - 1 each
Small to medium wires
2 bolts.

2 bolt anchor serves Sunday Stroll and Cinco Domingo.

Photos