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Routes in Dolores Canyon

A Walking Enigma T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Adventure with Puck T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Air Time S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arm and Hammer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bat Master S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearded Lunch Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Caroline's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caroline's OW T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cinco de Mayo en Domingo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confused T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Deliverance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Duncan's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ear, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Easy-Wider T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Groove Tube, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Time T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jive Turkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Joint Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunch Box Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Make John Do It T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
McComb Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Menstruation Station T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pump House Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1-
Pump House Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rattlesnake Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1+
Redemption Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rizla's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
Rope Master's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooky Tooth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday Stroll T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superette T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Swim Simulator T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Texas Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack aka People are Watching T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whiskey River T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wind Tower, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: I. Altman and R. Nall, 10/9/15
Page Views: 587 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ian Altman on Oct 12, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This awesome pitch follows the obvious hanging crack system, located 20' climbers' left of Lunch Box Special. Begin with a short face section (25'), and use an incipient crack (1"-3" gear) and single bolt for protection (5.10+). Gain small ledge below LBS crack, and climb this crack through small, left-facing roof/corner for 25' (5.10-). Traverse left at the second protection bolt and enter the Superette crack (5.10-). Follow this radness for 60', and look for locker fingers (3/4"-1" gear, 5.11) with an easing hand section above (2"-3" gear, 5.9/.10-).

The upper finger crack protects mainly with 1" Friends, red Aliens or 0.5 Camalots. Despite this bigger finger size, the crack is locker fingers because of how it's offset or tilted and a few good rests make it easier 5.11. This is a MUST DO!

Location

This route and several others are located directly above the access trail. It is located 25 feet left of the beginning of Lunch Box Special, Groove Tube, and A Walking Enigma . Look for short hand crack (1-3") below a single bolt. This variation ends up joining LBS for 25' but is well in line with the upper crack system. The line is clean and direct with no rope drag, as long as you protect it wisely.

Protection

2 - 1/2"
2 - 3/4"
3 - 1"
1 - 1.5"
1 - 2"
3 - 3"
2 - 3.5"
2 bolts.
Bring several quickdraws and long one or two. There is a two bolt anchor.

See first ascent rack, and bring supplements if you like.

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