Pumphouse Right Rock Climbing

Per Bill Duncan: just south of Dove Creek on US Highway 666, there is a turn by the airport. There is a BLM sign that says "Dolores Canyon overlook." Turn down this road, and take your first left by the airport. Do not go to the overlook (unless you want to see the view). There may be signs to Mountain Sheep Point or the pumping station. Follow this road down into Big Canyon and the boat ramp at the pumphouse. Continue past the boat ramp to where the cliffs come closer to the road and the rock quality improves dramatically. There are several obvious buttresses, and some of them have routes on them. There are still opportunities for FAs here, too. The local ethic here is traditional (ground up). There is one particularly good buttress, just to the right of a drainage system, called Beehive Buttress.

Per Ian Altman: just as you enter the township of Dove Creek on US Highway 491, look for a large brown BLM sign stating "Dolores River Canyon Access". The sign is on the south side of the highway, and the road you want is directly across the highway from it on the north side of the highway. After turning onto this road, follow it for a series of marked turns that state: "Dolores River Access" until you drop into the main canyon.

The series of turns after you leave the highway are: 1. left, 2. right. 3.left and 4. left. After taking the last left turn, the road begins to descend towards the Dolores River by descending a side canyon called "Secret Canyon". Once you reach the bottom of this descent and you first see the river, take a left, and follow this road for another mile before you reach the first chunk of climbs. There is a well maintained campground about 5 miles from CO Hwy 491 known as the "Box Elder" Campground. There are some shorter climbs near this campground, but the bulk of the climbs are a mile or so farther in an area known as "The Pump House". The Pump House access trail is marked by a cairn and is located at the far end of the buttress. This access trail will put you right at the base of the Retro Groove Wall. There are a multitude of other crags along this road, and looking for anchors is your best way to find them.

The GPS coordinates are not accurate yet.