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Carderock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's Crack TR 
Beginner's Face TR 
Biceps TR 
Billy Goat Boulder 
Buckets of blood (overhang) 
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 
Bulge, The TR 
Bump, The TR 
Butterfly TR 
Chris's Goat TR 
Copycat TR 
Crack, The T,TR 
Cripple's Crack TR 
Cripple's Face TR 
Crippling Paralysis TR 
Crystal Ship TR 
Desperation TR 
Diamond, The T,TR 
Dream Direct, The TR 
Dream, The TR 
Easy Layback TR 
Eight Ball TR 
Elsie's TR 
Elsie's Arete TR 
Elsie's Other TR 
Fingernail TR 
Flake, The TR 
Flutterby TR 
Friction Layback TR 
Golden Staircase TR 
Green Bucket TR 
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T 
Herbie's Horror TR 
Herbie's Left TR 
Incipient TR 
Iron Cross TR 
Jam Crack TR 
Jan's Face TR 
Kindergarten TR 
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 
Mad Dog TR 
Merv's Nerve TR 
Norris's Nipple T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 
Outlook Rock Boulder 
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T 
Rack, The T,TR 
Ronnie's Leap TR 
Serenity Syndrome TR 
Shipley's TR 
Silver Spot TR 
Spider Walk TR 
Sterling's Crack TR 
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 
Swayback Layback TR 
Tea and Scrumpet 
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 
Triple A TR 
Trudie's Terror TR 
Yellow Jacket TR 
Zig Zag TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Rest Day:
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Carderock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 50'
Location: 38.9755, -77.2066 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,010
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: franciscov on Sep 17, 2007  with updates from Rocket
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: CarderRock

Description 

A cliff band on the east side of the Patomac River just northwest of Washington DC. The rock is hard with quartz crystals and about 40 feet high. THe area is top ropped offf trees. Lots of hard foot work challenges. a beautiful area in the hardwood forest, peaceful most of the time but popular.


Getting There 

just of I-495 exit on to the Clara Barton Parkway in Carderock Park. Park in the far north parking lot and walk west on a trail to the cliffs.


62 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',9],['5.8',7],['5.9',8],['5.10',8],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Carderock:
Tea and Scrumpet   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   
Beginner's Face   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Trudie's Terror   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Sterling's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 45'   
Golden Staircase   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 55'   
Triple A   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Spider Walk   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Jan's Face   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Swayback Layback   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Flutterby   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 40'   
Butterfly   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Herbie's Horror   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 25'   
Incipient   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch   
Desperation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fingernail   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Flake   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Green Bucket   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 40'   
Cripple's Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Buckets of Blood Arete   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Zig Zag   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Carderock

Featured Route For Carderock
Reaching for the flange on Friction Layback.  The Bulge Route goes straight up.

Friction Layback 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  MD : Carderock
Climb up into the hole, sometimes wet, to the right of the incipient overhang, and fiddle around until you can get a hand on the obvious right-facing flange above. Yard on this and layback delicately to the top. Keep going on the rough rock above....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Carderock Slideshow Add Photo
Thanksgiving 2008
Thanksgiving 2008
Deer grazing behind Jan's Face, Oct 2013
Deer grazing behind Jan's Face, Oct 2013
T' giving 2008
T' giving 2008
Jungle Cliff around the Buckets of Blood area.
Jungle Cliff around the Buckets of Blood area.
The X-face provides over 2,600 eliminate slab boulder problems.
The X-face provides over 2,600 eliminate slab boul...
Geoff Fararr, aka Carderock Geoff, picking his way up Nubbin Face on Hades Heights in Dec. 2013 - a routine of his for many decades.  Geoff showed all of us the holds and tricks of this, his local rock, year in and year out, like the seasons.  Now it is up to his friends to keep up his tradition, at least as well as we are able.
Geoff Fararr, aka Carderock Geoff, picking his way...
Beginner' crack (5.3)
Beginner' crack (5.3)
Comments on Carderock Add Comment
Show which comments
By SqueegeeJoe
From: Manassas, VA
Dec 17, 2008

Carderock's a busy, busy place. On any given weekend, you can find local gyms and schools using this area for groups and classes, scouts climbing up and down, and dozens of locals out with their buddies or solo. No solitude here.

Top-roping is the recommended technique. There are no bolts worth trusting, and everything is so slick from use it's hard to get gear to stick.

By Dan Hickstein
Jan 10, 2009

The secret of Carderock climbing is out! Once known only by locals, the area now draws climbers from as far away as Virginia and has even been visited by a climber from California: www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15825820

By Jhernand
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 1, 2009

As far away as VA...? just across the river? hell of a trek!

By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Oct 25, 2009

Carderock is a huge sandbag. This is quite evident from the video that Dan posted which shows a 5.15 climber falling multiple times on a climb rated "only" 12d. On TR, no less. (That's a great little video, BTW.)

By Frances Fierst
Administrator
From: Munchweiler, Germany
Apr 17, 2012

Here is a bunch of additional information from about.com Climbing:
climbing.about.com/od/wheretoclimb/fr/Carderock-Rock-Climbin>>>

Carderock, located along the east side of the Potomac River in Maryland just north of Washington DC, is one of the most popular urban climbing areas in the eastern United States. The 25- to 60-foot-high, west-facing cliff offers lots of easy and moderate top-rope routes, with a few harder climbs as well as numerous eliminate routes and boulder problems.

Most Popular Cliff on East Coast
Since Carderock is in the Washington DC metroplex, a densely populated area that also includes cities in Maryland and Virginia, it’s extremely popular—probably the most climbed cliff in the eastern United States. Local climbers come after work for a few quick routes, while large groups, including guided trips, Boy Scout troops, and others, flock on the weekends. To avoid the crowds, plan on climbing during the week when it’s usually quiet and you can put a top-rope on any climb you want.

Geology: Carderock Schist is Slick
Carderock climbing ranges from easy to hard and often depends on the temperature and humidity. Summer is not the best time to climb the crag’s harder routes. The rock surface is often slick and polished, making careful footwork important. Some climbs also feature quartz crystal knobs and nubbins, allowing for friendly moves on solid handholds. The occasional crack climbs found at Carderock offer laybacks and jams. The cliff at Carderock is composed of mica schist, a metamorphic rock that was originally deposited as shale and mudstone and was later subjected to intense heat and pressure which transformed or metamorphosed the original deposit.

Solid Rock for Solid Climbing
The rock at Carderock is generally sound with a clean surface although sometimes hollow flakes or loose holds are found. Most routes, however, have been climbed a lot so any loose rock has been cleaned off. The cracks, however, are not ideal for leading since protection is often difficult to place and the schist has a reputation for being friable and breakable if a piece of gear is subjected to a leader fall.

One of Oldest Climbing Areas in Eastern USA
Carderock offers lots of fun easy and moderate climbs that are easily top-roped from a rope strung from tree anchors.

Carderock, with its proximity to Washington DC, is one of the oldest established climbing areas in the eastern United States. Gustave Gambs, partnered with Don Hubbard and Paul Bradt, introduced climbing here in the 1920s. These early climbers used laid manila ropes, which were looped around their waists and cinched up with a bowline knot. They either top-roped routes or led them, pounding pitons in cracks for protection.

Early Carderock Climbing
In the 1940s, climbers continued to explore Carderock and Great Falls, particularly in Mather Gorge on the Virginia side of the Potomac River farther upstream. Carderock, however, was more easily accessible to city climbers. The area’s first climbing guide, “Rock Climbs Near Washington” written by Don Hubbard, was published in the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC) Bulletin in July, 1943.

Herb and Jan Conn Go Climbing
In 1942, Herb and Jan Conn, who later settled in the Black Hills of South Dakota and opened many routes at The Needles as well as explored and mapped Wind Cave and Jewel Cave, began climbing at Carderock. The Conns climbed and named lots of the routes at Carderock, including Herbie’s Horror in 1942. This route, first climbed by Herb Conn, was one of the first 5.9 routes in the eastern United States. Other Conn routes were a bunch of top-ropes on Jan’s Face and Ronnie’s Leap, which Jan Conn says “was named for our dog, who mistook that spot for the walk down near the Spider Walk. He came hurdling down while we watched in dismay, but at the bottom he trotted off without a backward glance.”

Letter from Jan Conn

In 2008, Vincent Penoso with the PATC sent a copy of their new guidebook to Herb and Jan Conn. Jan replied with a thank you letter, which is scanned and posted on the PATC website. She wrote: “We had a ball reading your new guide to the climbing at Carderock. We marvel at the places people now climb. The last time we were there (1985) the glaze made by slipping feet below the Spider’s Walk hand crack brought to our minds that these climbs get harder as the years past. We’re glad we did all our climbing before the polishing. The guide brought back fond memories of the period in our lives when we realized that life is what you want it to be. If climbing is more important than having a prestigious job or a family, go for it!” Well said, Jan!

Carderock Climbing Equipment
Carderock is a top-rope climbing area although some routes can be led. All top-rope anchors are trees either along the cliff-top or set back. Bring an extra rope or length of rope, preferably static, to create an equalized top-rope anchor using trees and to extend the anchor to a master point over the cliff edge. Long lengths of webbing can also be used for anchors. Also bring several slings and locking carabiners. A small assortment of Stoppers and cams can supplement your anchor too. While the top edge of the cliff isn’t sharp, you can also bring a sheath, a section of garden hose works fine, to protect the fixed rope where it drapes over the cliff-top. Read Top-Rope Climbing Equipment for more gear information.

Location
North of Washington DC and the I-95 beltway along the Potomac River in Maryland.

Finding Carderock
Carderock is on the Maryland side of the Potomac River about 12 miles north of Washington DC. Follow I-495, the Capitol Beltway, and take Exit 13. Drive north on the Clara Barton Parkway to the first exit for Carderock Recreation Area and the Naval Surface Warfare Center Carderock Division. Turn left and drive across the parkway on a bridge into the national parkland. Follow the road to the last parking area. A trail starts on the south side of restrooms. Follow it for 0.1 mile to the cliff-top. Access the cliff base by scrambling down a gully in the middle of the cliff or by hiking right and descending around the north edge of the cliff.

Take the Bus to Carderock
If you’re visiting and don’t have a car, you can reach Carderock from Washington DC. Take bus #32 from the Bethesda Bus Station in Washington DC. Ask the drive to drop you off at the gate for the naval base. Cross the bridge over the parkway and hike up to the road to the parking area and trailhead. The bus ride takes about 30 minutes.